Elevation: 5,495 ft
GPS: 39.328, -120.567 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,822 total · 300/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 24, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Kyle Bishop, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The main area of Indian Springs is a 3-tiered south facing granite slab with about 20 routes ranging from 5.6 to hard 5.11. Most of the routes are bolted with additional trad gear possibilities here and there to help protect longer run-out sections. A few climbs are strictly trad. The rock is excellent quality making for exceptional face climbing routes.

Indian Springs Campground is just down the road and the close-by South Yuba River offers a wonderful dip after a hot day of climbing.

To descend off the upper tier, walk left down the western rock slabs circling back around to the cliffs. The trail is pretty much non existent through the manzanita so most people rappel down the main slabs. Double bolts with chains and rappel rings are easily found on top of most routes. Access is free and the approach is a fairly easy 10-15 minutes walk straight in from parking lot following a small trail to slabs which can be hiked up to the right to the top and then left to base of lower tier. The best path is not obvious but basically you head for the left side of the lower tier. Either way, you can't get lost as the cliffs are always in plain sight.

The lower tier offers numerous introduction routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range which are excellent leads. All routes can be top-roped also by scrambling up the left side. Some of the routes do have some run-out sections which may or may not have trad placement possibilities. There is also a large section of rock to the right of the lower tier that has some moderate climbs. I haven't seen much information on this section but looks fun to explore. Recommended routes are Indian Springs (5.9), Sundaze (5.9+), Zephyr (5.10c/d), Fire Stone (5.9), Rocco's Corner (5.9+), and Joey's.

Indian Springs does have a two page spread in Mike Carville's Falcon Guide called Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe. The guide has a sketch of the 3-tiers with route names, ratings, and locations identified.

Getting There

Indian Springs is conveniently located one mile west of Cisco Grove on the north side of Interstate 80, about 45 miles east of Auburn and 12 miles west of Donner Pass Summit.

Exit at the Eagle Lakes Rd exit and turn north and west following the Eagle Lakes frontage road for about 1/2 mile.

An obvious pullout parking area is found on the right side with a clear view of the cliffs up and on the right about 500 yards away.

59 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Springs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Crackey McCrackerton (....unknown)
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Rising Tide
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
5.7- crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Overboard
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Susan McSendy
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 18
Grizzly Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Beeline Undercling (aka Undercl…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Indian Springs
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
After The Flood
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
Integratron a.k.a. "5.10 left"
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
High Flow
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 36
Zephyr
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crackey McCrackerton (....u… Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Rising Tide Falls Walls
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
5.7- crack Superdog Dome
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Overboard Falls Walls
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Susan McSendy Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Grizzly Crack Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
 18
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Beeline Undercling (aka Un… Beeline Slab
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Indian Springs Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
After The Flood Falls Walls
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Integratron a.k.a. "5.10 left" Superdog Dome
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
High Flow Falls Walls
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Zephyr Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
 36
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls Falls Walls
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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