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Routes in Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier

Country Bumpkin T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Old Sea Hag S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Piss Ant, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Rocco's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Super Doo T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Super Slab 4 You T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
When Joey Comes Marching Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 162 total, 1/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 22, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fire Stone starts up and right from Rocco's Corner about 15'. You must scramble up a little chimney to reach the face which is just right of an obvious easy crack climb called Super Doo (5.2). Climb up past first bolt through a nicely featured face. To get to the second bolt, which is quite a ways away, move up and delicately step left just below the bolt. You would hit the deck if you slipped off here. Move up to the obvious left facing flake/corner. This protects well to it's top. A thin step left off the flake onto the face is the crux with one or two thin moves up to the anchors. This is a great, fun route with two cruxes, the delicate move left before the second bolt and stepping off the flake at the top although the first is more heady than difficult.

Protection

Two bolts plus a few additional small to medium trad gear protect this climb adequately. Anchors are double bolts. A short 3rd class scramble gets you to the very top of the cliffs. A fall scrambling would be very bad.
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
5.9 R
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
5.9 R
This route is R rated as you will deck if you fall getting to the second bolt. Jan 16, 2012
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.9
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.9
I did the first moves slightly different the second time I did this route. I decided to climb directly up from first bolt to second bolt on the thin face. It certainly is easier climbing up on the right but the delicate step left seemed scarier. Climbing straight up was easier than it first looked and pretty straight forward. Just as much fun the second time around! Aug 2, 2005