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Routes in Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier

Country Bumpkin T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Old Sea Hag S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Piss Ant, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Rocco's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Super Doo T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Super Slab 4 You T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
When Joey Comes Marching Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Rocco Spina 1990
Page Views: 157 total · 1/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Joey's first half is quite easy but a bit run out to the second bolt. The hard moves start just above the third bolt. The first crux is thin hands and feet until you get hands over the small overhang. The second crux is getting your feet over the overhang.

Location

Even though Joey's is technically on the upper tier, you reach it by walking left from the lower tier along a small trail through the bushes and angling up and over boulders after 75 feet or so. The cliff is only one tier at this end of the cliffs. The climb is easily recognized by a small clearing at the base of the only nice looking face with a small overhang near the top. A 60 meter rope just reaches the ground for rappelling. Otherwise you could walk left off the top and wind down and around the base back to the climb.

Protection

The 6 bolts can be supplemented with additional gear in a couple places to ease nerves if need be. 2 bolt anchors for belaying on top.
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Does anyone know what the climb is that goes up about 30' right of Joey's? The first bolt is about 15' up on a slab and then two more are up and left on the steeper rock (crux). A fourth bolt is found after the crux section and a fifth is up at the last short wall before the top. Additional trad gear protects the couple longer runouts. The climb is very good and on solid rock simulating a rock gym route to some extent with the steep sections having good holds that are horizontal to a bit sloping. I would think it goes at 5.9 or so... Oct 29, 2006
great climb. can TR w/ 60m and extended anchor and avoid the crux 5.9, which makes it a really good long and fun 5.7 or so. Sep 24, 2010
Gunkswest
CA
  5.10a
Gunkswest   CA
  5.10a
RC.com has this listed as "When Joey Comes Marching Home." This is a very good route. As mentioned, a couple TCUs can be used to supplement the bolts. Jul 12, 2011
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
I don't know what a legal firm has to do with anything, but this route is called "When Joey Comes Marching Home", it is 10b and a pretty good mixed pro lead. Sep 29, 2012
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Repeated this route now 8 years later and either the route got harder or I got older. Pretty tough moves getting up the section under the roof. Couldn't be a better place for the hidden holds! Lots of good moves all the way to the top! Jul 31, 2014

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