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Routes in Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier

Country Bumpkin T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Old Sea Hag S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Piss Ant, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Rocco's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Super Doo T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Super Slab 4 You T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
When Joey Comes Marching Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 22, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Now that you have become comfortable on Indian Springs' great, mostly bolted face climbs, you decide to try out a trad 5.9. This climb will truely test your crack climbing techniques, ability to place gear in awkward and difficult stances, and then test your head on the runout face climbing to the anchors! After scrambling up some class 4 rock you will find yourself on a great platform (with some shade on the right) with the obvious corner/crack above. Step up right and onto the face and then step left to just below the corner. Climb the corner past the bulge crux. Make sure you place a few good pieces in the thin crack above as the runout face to the anchors is quite hard. This is a great route but feels a full grade harder than other 9's in the area. This is mostly due to the fact that it requires completely different techniques, is all trad, and has a technical runout face section at the end.

Protection

This route is completely trad where a good selection of small to medium cams and stoppers is required. A two bolt anchor awaits on top. 20' of class 4 scrambling gets you to the very top of the cliffs.
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.9+
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.9+
I just wanted to add that when I did this route I had no chalk (and it was hot!) and brought my hexes instead of stoppers and had no small cams. My fingers slipped out of the jams at the bulge crux and was just able to suck myself back into the rock. The upper section was gripping for me as my last three placements were iffy hex placements and the upper face climbing is thin where all the holds are edges where flakes have broken off. So in the back on my mind were the poor placements and whether or not another flake will break off. I need to go back properly equipped and see whether it truely as bad as I state. It is a great climb and even with good gear it will be a good test piece and very hard for it's grade! I almost want to say it's a 10... I still give it 3 stars even with the somewhat poorer rock at the top. Jul 27, 2005