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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Night Gallery aka Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Karl Hammer, John Hoffman, 1976.
Page Views: 6,661 total · 45/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

This is the pumper crack on the left of the East Face. It leans slightly left.

Protection

Pro to 3"

Photos

426
 
426  
 
Don't miss this if you like steep hand cracks! Mar 8, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Fitting name. It definitely gets pumpy towards the end! Mar 24, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Great description Blitzo. This climb is not to be missed! Jun 8, 2009
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10b
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10b
I found the crux (upper finger crack) really tough to lead through. It takes pro well, but stopping to place it saps all your strength. The crack is rounded over and off-finger so it's hard to get good finger locks.
Strenuous for sure! Jul 4, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
I remember doing this about 1996, at a time when I boasted, "I can onsight any 5.10 finger crack." Shortly thereafter I retreated from FTA and let my friend KC Baum finish if for me. I barely followed on TR. Embarrassed. Then assumed it was the altitude. Then realized that I lived at pretty much the same altitude. Then realized it was pure hubris. Never said anything like that again. Great route. Get on it. Speak softly. Mar 2, 2015
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
Nicely played Peter. Man up to your humility.

The start requires some muscle to pull through. Then I seemed to find "good enough" rest spots throughout until the end. The last 10 feet or so to the anchors are definitely the crux. Here the rock felt quite "slippery". Sep 13, 2015
Gordy Ainsleigh
Auburn, California
  5.10b
Gordy Ainsleigh   Auburn, California
  5.10b
This is a fabulous climb! It's about a 5.9 until you get to the left-arching crack/flake, which I have always done as a layback, foregoing protection once I hit the layback. That part of the climb is thrillingly muscular, and you just have to keep moving. The holds get better and better at exactly the rate that your grip gets weaker and weaker, so you arrive at the top with grip muscles totally spent, almost unable to hold onto bomber holds. If you haven't done this as a layback, you've missed half the fun. It's a long fall if you come off, but there's nothing to hit, and you'll either get an air catch or a maneageable landing at the bottom. Kudos to the guy who named this route. I'm thinking he did it as a layback.
Loved Peter Lewis' comment. Aug 11, 2017
carl al
 
carl al  
 
Gear is good up top! and i needed it Sep 18, 2018

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