Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Eric Beck and Peter Hann, 1972
Page Views: 35,687 total · 155/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jun 24, 2005 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Classic Black Wall outing.

P1 (5.8): Long pitch, head for the twin cracks and continue up a slightly lower-angle section to a bolted belay.

P2 (5.9): Climb the steep, thin crack above the belay, then move left through a slanting corner. Getting around the end of the corner, over the bulge, and onto the face is the route crux. From here, continue up and left on a ramp system to the large Lizard Ledge.

P3 (5.7-5.12): Numerous options can take you from Lizard Ledge to the summit of Black Wall. The most common/standard finish follows the obvious crack system that leads off the right side of LL (5.7). Some might find this pitch a bit anticlimactic.

Other alternative finishes from Lizard Ledge include: 1) a sparsely-bolted but low-angled and featured slab off the far left side of LL (5.8); 2) a flake to wide crack system off the left side of LL (5.8); 3) a mostly-bolted face to arete off the center of LL (5.10-); and a thin finger crack that splits left off of the standard finish (5.12-).

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 4", bolted belays.