Avg: 3.6 from 193 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Peter Hann - 1972|
|Page Views:||22,529 total · 139/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Rezucha on Jun 24, 2005|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years.
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. The Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign, then purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs, in 2015.
One Hand Clapping starts on a ledge on the main Black Wall face below an obvious tall, twin crack system slanting right. Climb the twin cracks requiring good hand jamming techniques (5.8) and continue up to a belay with bolted anchors. Climb the steep, thin crack above to a slab. Continue up and left (a little runout here) and continue up and left through a steep, weird, intimidating, slanting left flaring corner. Getting around the end of the corner, over the bulge, and onto the face is the 5.9 crux. From here you can continue up and left on easier face climbing to the large Lizard ledge. A fun alternative is to step right to a cool, small, exposed ledge and belay. We had 4 people on this ledge which was very cozy indeed! Climb straight up on a fairly difficult crack/slab to Lizard ledge. The final, long 5.6 pitch has a surprising, tricky section about 50' up. This is a must do climb! Lots of good solid fun climbing! I would say though that the leader should be a very solid 5.9/5.10 climber as there are sections that are strenous, tricky, and a little difficult to properly protect!