Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,637 total · 52/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

This route may have another name, but not that I'm aware of. A linkup of a couple different routes, including Cannibal Gully and Touch And Go; has enough independent climbing that it deserves its own spot in here. P1: Head up offwidth-looking crack on left side of Cannibal Gully. After ~60', traverse right across face to chain anchor at base of dihedral. P2: Climb 2nd pitch dihedral of Touch and Go. Belay at end of slabby section. P3: Head up corner to Lizard Ledge (Touch and Go climbs crack on face to the arete). This corner has cleaned up nicely, and is the money pitch. Crux of route is the last move to gain Lizard Ledge. P4: choose any Lizard Ledge exit pitch.

Location

Starts at base of Cannibal Gully, on far left side of Black Wall. Walk off to left.

Protection

Gear to 4". Fixed anchors at top of 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches.

Photos

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Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
  5.9
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
  5.9
I don't really know if this route is a separate route or if its just a variation to Touch and Go. 10 years ago this crack / corner was filled with choss,moss, and loose flakes. The last time I climbed T&G I climbed the corner because it looked like it had cleaned up so well. I stayed in the corner all the way to the top. I found this line more aesthetically pleasing, easier, and better protected than the original line of T&G. The stemming at the top is just plain wild. 10a seems like a stretch. This thing felt like pure 5.9 to me. Apr 11, 2013
mac345
Reno, Nv
  5.10a
mac345   Reno, Nv
  5.10a
did this in may and was very good in the corner the crak is a little flarey and the last move before the lizard ledge was, um, committing so be ready for it. I say it was a bit harder then 5.9. And the touch and go left facing dihedral/corner looks intimidating but is really sweet so if you can lead the grade get on it. Jun 5, 2013
Connor Newman
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
  5.10a
Great climb, seemed like lots of sustained 5.9 in the corner with a final 10a crux exiting onto the belay ledge. Keep stemming on those awesome crystals. Aug 24, 2014
Lurker
Truckee, CA
  5.10a
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
  5.10a
Yeah, whether it's a variation to other routes or its own route is debatable, but it really only shares about 50' of climbing with Touch and Go, and about the same with Cannibal Gully.

To me, it just seems like one of the better and more logical multipitch lines on Black Wall. Totally ignored by the Carville guide, not sure about the newer guide.

Way more logical and straightforward than the original Touch and Go line. That thing never made sense to me, aside from maybe being the line of least resistance through that part of the wall. Dec 22, 2014