Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1972 Eric Beck
Page Views: 684 total · 9/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jun 29, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

The first pitch of "Next" or "The Next Imagination" as it was originally called starts to the left of "Slipstream". It consists of low angle cracks/flakes and is tricky to protect. It then climbs into a gully and up a short 5.7 slot with a chockstone. Belay from gear 1"-2.5". The second pitch is amazing. Choose your grips carefully as you balance and crimp your way up a rounded buttress and then transition onto the broad slabby face to the left (10b). Very similar to Tuolumne style climbing and commitment level. 4 new-style bolts in 75 feet to chain anchors on the top of "No Stems" or 90 feet to the plush "Birdie" ledge. For the third pitch, go straight up the nice vertical splitter crack that hooks to the left at the top. Instead of following the crack left, clip the bolt above and balance your way right and up to chain anchors (10+). This crack is steep, clean, and features great climbing. If it were more accessible it would be one of the most popular 10+ routes on the summit.

To descend, rap the route.

Protection

Draws, gear to 3.5".

Photos

Matthew Stein
Truckee, CA
 
Matthew Stein   Truckee, CA
 
I first led this route back in 1980 or soon thereafter, and repeated it several times in the 80s and 90s. Over the years the crux has gotten more difficult as small edges have peeled off the face climbing crux section. Last time I was on Next was when I seconded Matt Aspinal in about 2016, and he peeled off the last remaining substantial flake from the middle of the crux section. I would say the rating is now a solid easy 5.11 (probably 5.11a, possibly 5.11b). Still fun, but a stiff lead requiring some balls for the finish face above the bolt on P3. Nice crack climbing on P3 leading to dicey face moves on thin edges that gets a little run-out. Jul 30, 2018