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5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in 1. Black Wall - Left
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Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bourbon Street T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cannibal Gully T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fascination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Happy Ending T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Headstone T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hungover Hangover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Recess T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lubrication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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No Stems No Seeds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball Junkie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambo Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rat Ramp S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sky Pilot T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slipstream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Total Bliss T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.32485, -120.31463 |
| FA: | 2nd Pitch - Eric Beck, 1972; 3rd Pitch Max Jones and Gary Allen, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,659 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | V.X. on Jun 29, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Description
The first pitch of "Next" or "The Next Imagination" as it was originally called starts to the left of "Slipstream". It consists of low angle cracks/flakes and is tricky to protect. It then climbs into a gully and up a short 5.7 slot with a chockstone. Belay from gear 1"-2.5". The second pitch is amazing. Choose your grips carefully as you balance and crimp your way up a rounded buttress and then transition onto the broad slabby face to the left (10b). Very similar to Tuolumne style climbing and commitment level. 4 new-style bolts in 75 feet to chain anchors on the top of "No Stems" or 90 feet to the plush "Birdie" ledge. For the third pitch, go straight up the nice vertical splitter crack that hooks to the left at the top. Instead of following the crack left, clip the bolt above and balance your way right and up to chain anchors (10+). This crack is steep, clean, and features great climbing. If it were more accessible it would be one of the most popular 10+ routes on the summit.
To descend, rap the route.
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