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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kim Schmitz 1971
Page Views: 1,013 total, 15/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jun 27, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the ramp that trends up and right from underneath the "Firecracker" starting area. Slab out easy 5th on the ramp, then the climb trends up through discontinuous and sometimes dirty cracks.

Pitch 1 variation: finish on the recent "Rat Ramp" sport route anchors on the face to the right. 35 m to ground. Preview the excellent 5.10a bolt route, "Rat Ramp", while descending (or set a toprope and try it firsthand).

Pitches 2, 3 and/or 4: A 5.7R right traversing second pitch, to a left facing corner crack. Up the corner and belay on top, or continue either right or left to the summit. Unlike several of Carville's topos on Black Wall in the 1999 Falcon Guide, Johnson's newer North Tahoe guide is easy to follow on this one.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

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Fun short second pitch variation going partway up P2 and then doing a (unprotected) hand traverse left on a flake to an easy mantle to the Space Modulator belay chains. For a 5.8 climber, it's a bit spicy getting to the belay and then starting up past it to a horizontal dike and beginning the traverse (part of the Overpass traverse?). No pro for a ways out from the belay but once you get up on the dike and out on the traverse, there are good hands and feet on edges and some pockets. Quite fun, actually, ending with a little plain old slab climbing to the bottom of the crack. The crack, however, was not what I expected. Unless I was entirely in the wrong place, that 'crack' is a messy, dirty, loose block-and-flake filled OW. By the time I stemmed, wormed, half-chimneyed - even found an arm bar in there somewhere - I felt like I was doing an FA, what with all the dried moss and dust in my eyes, nose and mouth. Keep in mind I am only a 5.8 trad climber, though, so I expect I made a pure hash out of it. Sep 11, 2015
^^^^^ Glad you found the new North Tahoe guidebook more followable on this route than the old Falcon guide. :)

Most parties do top out on this, 3-4 pitch, popular route, and each pitch is equally enjoyable on good rock. (Though the second pitch is often wet in the spring) The route does not go to the anchors on the new route "Rat Ramp" though it is an option if going to top rope "Rat Ramp". This was actually my very first multi-pitch route, many, many years ago and have done it at least a dozen times since, as it is a good first time introduction to Balckwall for 5.8 climbers. Never considered the second pitch to be that runout, but maybe slightly for those used to sport climbing protection? Jul 12, 2012
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.8
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.8
There is actually 2-3 more pitches on this route, depending on how you run it. A 5.7r right traversing second pitch, to a left facing corner crack. Up the corner and belay on top, or continue either right or left to the summit. Unlike several Carville topos on Black Wall the guide is pretty followable on this route. Jul 9, 2012