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Routes in Black Wall - Left

Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fascination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: G. Allen
Page Views: 936 total · 12/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jul 2, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

No Stems No Seeds is the acute right leaning corner above Slipstream. It doesn't look hard but this climb takes all the wide skills you've got. Armbar, bridge, and stem you way up the blank dihedral and hope the few tiny micro nuts will keep you off the deck. About halfway up a pinscar takes some good small cams.

This climb was first free climbed with fixed pins. Early in this climb's history, pitons were removed or pulled out from falls. No one replaced the pins then, so consensus is to leave it clean. Now it is regarded as a runout test piece without ant them.

Protection

Tiny micro nuts, offset stoppers, cams.

Photos

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kolamjr
Tahoma, California
 
kolamjr   Tahoma, California
 
Great climb, and I have never felt it to be runout. Never use old pitons unless nothing else is available, at least try to back them up.
I have done this climb many times, first time in about 1990, and it's not runout. Feb 3, 2013
Did this route yesterday and I'd say it is runout, however not in the harder area. You get a small cam and a tiny nut at the start for crux the entry moves, then it's about 15' of 10a ( would be a ledge fall ) to where you get a good small cam. The rest is well protected above. I thought the entry crux was probably only 10d using a chicken wing. Overall, very fun, heads up pitch. Sep 2, 2013

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