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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: First Free Ascent: Bill Dutton, Paul Sullivan, 1969
Page Views: 1,380 total, 33/month
Shared By: Andrew Gillies on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

Hand crack in the left corner of the gully takes you up until you go over some easy bulges. First pitch ends at a couple of bolts at the end of the gully.

The crux of the climb is the first moves off the ledge of the second pitch. Move up and left from the belay to a delicate mantle, then pull over some friction climbing onto another ramp. Continue up here to the second belay.

the third pitch is easy low angle wide crack to the top out.

Protection

to 4 inches.

Photos

- No Photos -
Gordy Ainsleigh
Auburn, California
  5.8 PG13
Gordy Ainsleigh   Auburn, California
  5.8 PG13
IMO, this climb would need 4 bolts added to be reasonably safe. I've done the climb several times over the last 10 years or so, and have fallen twice on the steepening slab early in the last pitch. My most recent fall was 3 days ago, and my careening was much shortened by putting a small Omega Link-Cam in the top of the expanding flake before I headed up the slab. I've tried other cams, and they expand the flake when I fall, so they pull out. Those Link-Cams, with their huge expansion, take expanding flakes in stride--wonderful invention!
To me, this route seems a lot harder than 5.7. John Hoffman, a pro climber at Donner in the bad old days (bless his retired-to-Bishop soul) once commented that this is the hardest 5.7 in the world. I graded it a 5.8 and I'm going to compare it to One Hand Clapping. If I don't fall on One Hand Clapping, I'm going to submit a grade of 5.9 for Cannibal Gully. If I do fall, I'll just have to admit that, at 70, I'm finally getting old.
If you go off on a seam to the right at the base of the summit boulder, the short climb up the south face to the summit is awesomely exhilirating. Aug 10, 2017
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.7
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.7
First pitch is where it's at. If you don't have a burning desire to climb the entire route, then do yourself a favor and rap off here. Or, even better, finish on Touch and Go. Jan 27, 2015