Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gary Allen, Malcolm Jolly 1977
Page Views: 2,892 total · 34/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Dec 7, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Pitch 1 and 2: Climb the chimney like feature and cracks to left of the Rat's Tooth. I believe the first pitch was 5.6 or 5.7 and the second pitch had some 5.8 like moves ending on a nice ledge on the left side of the large gulley. In an older guidebook they called these two pitches "Inner Recess" (I actually prefer to climb the 5.10 pitch of Rat's tooth, and the beginning of the 2nd pitch of Touch and go to get to the anchor)

Pitch 3 (The Money Pitch): From the ledge climb straight up the chimney and head right over a couple of bulges and a roof to reach the main corner. Climb up the corner between two roofs and around to the right of the 2nd roof at the top of the corner ending at Lizard Ledge.

Protection

Single to 3" w/ doubles in fingers and nuts.

Photos

Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
  5.10
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
  5.10
The 5.10 pitch is solid at the grade and is very thoughtful. While primarily a balance and stem problem there are layback moves and some powerful cranks and even a mantle or two. When I climbed this in 2004 the climb was somewhat dirty and it didn't look like it had seen much traffic. I've since never seen anyone on it. The quality, rather than the lack of gear leads me to think it may warrant a PG (its really PG rather than pg13) rating. The gear, while all there takes some thought and patience and much of the seam is too small for protection. Twice in the corner I had 20' sections protected with somewhat marginal pieces. Recommended for solid 5.10 trad climbers only.

Edit July 2013: someone has put some serious time into cleaning this thing. The crack now takes great gear as most is the areas that were once filled with dirt and moss are now clean finger sized crack. The middle section has seen flakes and the like cleaned out, so where there was once flaring gear there are now some solid cams. There is still no gear for about 6' to the roof, but this thing is now super safe. Even the comment in the new locals guide about gear popping out of flaring cracks is misplaced. While it climbs great right now, I will say it seemed far easier and the original spice is gone. I had no idea how dirty this thing was back in 2004. Dec 7, 2011
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.10b
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.10b
Sweetness! The way we did it last night: climb first pitch of Rat's Tooth (the finger crack start), nice 5.10 pitch. Belay left on the bolts. From there, scramble left and up the gully (5.7?) - belay at the second set of bolts at the base of Rambo Crack (*left in the gully*), or somewhere around there (I thought I have to go further up the chimney / find a ledge there, but there isn't a comfortable ledge... so we belayed from a small stance at the base of the crux corner). From there, climb up the sweet corner (this is Bourbon Street itself) to the bolts to the right of it - now you are on Lizard Ledge and there are a couple of options...

This whole area is a little confusing when going up there for the first time, with so many climbs in such close proximity... :) The chimney is full of bird shit and feathers as of September 2013, so there seems to be active nesting in the spring time, as indicated. Sep 9, 2013
Joe Crawford
June Lake, California
  5.10a/b
Joe Crawford   June Lake, California
  5.10a/b
The crux (p3) was a bit harder than Touch and Go, and the rock was solid and clean in the corner. Did Rat's Tooth instead of the Cannibal Gully start described here; felt much more drained by that pitch than the 3rd, where I found the crux to be the moves just before the traverse under the roof. Good route, deserves more traffic! Jul 11, 2014
Christopher Rein  
  5.9
Climbed rat's tooth chimney to this and the second pitch is pretty lame. The third pitch was very clean when I climbed this a few weeks ago. Not sure what it felt like when it was dirty, but I thought the 3rd pitch was far far easier than 10b (5.9 maybe) and took great gear. Jul 28, 2015
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.10a
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.10a
Fun climb, felt easier to me than 10b. Offset finger cams definitely aren't necessary for this route, but they work well in some of the flares, bring them if you've got them. Oct 23, 2017
This climb should be done more than Touch and Go. It is definitely easier than Touch and Go. We back cleaned the pro before the exit from the chimney to save on rope drag.

An offset index finger size, is good a few feet before the roof. Save a green metolius/#1 camalot and a purple metolius/#3 camalot for under the roof. The climb and pro looks intimidating but it's just 5.9+. Jun 16, 2018