All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left

Fascination

Name: Fascination
Rating: 2.8

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in 1. Black Wall - Left

L › R R › L A › Z

	Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Bourbon Street T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Cannibal Gully T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Fascination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Headstone T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hungover Hangover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Inner Recess T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lubrication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	No Stems No Seeds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pinball Junkie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rambo Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rat Ramp S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Sky Pilot T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Slipstream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS:	39.32485, -120.31463
FA:	Gary Allan, Max Jones, 1977
Page Views:	1,452 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Mike McL on Oct 31, 2018
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details

Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org

Description

This route is located 2 pitches off the deck and is an optional finish to One Hand Clapping. It takes you to the very top of Black Wall.

After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay. We started Fascination here. You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.

From the bolted belay mentioned above move into the crack that is just right of the belay. Climb this crack up to a slab. The guidebook mentioned a bolt up here but we didn't see it (and found the route protected fine without it). Not sure if we missed it or if it was chopped. Regardless, climb up the slab to a bulge with 2 cracks. Climb the left crack a couple feet to a horizontal break and traverse right to the flaring finger crack that angles up and left. The top of this angling crack was the crux. The pro here was a bit thin and flaring, offset nuts and cams are useful here if you have them.

After pulling the crux head up and right via the hand crack/ramp to the summit of Black Wall.

You can walk off from here or rappel with a single 70. First rap takes you to Lizard Ledge. 2nd rap takes you to the start of Bliss/top of There Goes the Neighborhood. 3rd rap takes you to the ground. There are likely other ways you can rap down.

Location

This route is located 2 pitches off the deck and is an optional finish to One Hand Clapping.

After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay. We started Fascination here. You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.