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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> Black Wall
> 1. Black Wall - Left
Fascination
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 17
votes
Routes in 1. Black Wall - Left
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Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bourbon Street T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cannibal Gully T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fascination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Recess T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lubrication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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No Stems No Seeds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball Junkie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambo Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rat Ramp S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slipstream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Touch A Cannibal T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Gary Allan, Max Jones, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,389 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Mike McL on Oct 31, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
This route is located 2 pitches off the deck and is an optional finish to One Hand Clapping. It takes you to the very top of Black Wall.
After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay. We started Fascination here. You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.
From the bolted belay mentioned above move into the crack that is just right of the belay. Climb this crack up to a slab. The guidebook mentioned a bolt up here but we didn't see it (and found the route protected fine without it). Not sure if we missed it or if it was chopped. Regardless, climb up the slab to a bulge with 2 cracks. Climb the left crack a couple feet to a horizontal break and traverse right to the flaring finger crack that angles up and left. The top of this angling crack was the crux. The pro here was a bit thin and flaring, offset nuts and cams are useful here if you have them.
After pulling the crux head up and right via the hand crack/ramp to the summit of Black Wall.
You can walk off from here or rappel with a single 70. First rap takes you to Lizard Ledge. 2nd rap takes you to the start of Bliss/top of There Goes the Neighborhood. 3rd rap takes you to the ground. There are likely other ways you can rap down.
After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay. We started Fascination here. You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.
From the bolted belay mentioned above move into the crack that is just right of the belay. Climb this crack up to a slab. The guidebook mentioned a bolt up here but we didn't see it (and found the route protected fine without it). Not sure if we missed it or if it was chopped. Regardless, climb up the slab to a bulge with 2 cracks. Climb the left crack a couple feet to a horizontal break and traverse right to the flaring finger crack that angles up and left. The top of this angling crack was the crux. The pro here was a bit thin and flaring, offset nuts and cams are useful here if you have them.
After pulling the crux head up and right via the hand crack/ramp to the summit of Black Wall.
You can walk off from here or rappel with a single 70. First rap takes you to Lizard Ledge. 2nd rap takes you to the start of Bliss/top of There Goes the Neighborhood. 3rd rap takes you to the ground. There are likely other ways you can rap down.
Location
This route is located 2 pitches off the deck and is an optional finish to One Hand Clapping.
After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay. We started Fascination here. You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.
After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay. We started Fascination here. You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.
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