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> 1. Black Wall - Left
Rat's Tooth
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 73 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,345 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jun 8, 2008 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
There are two different variations to the Rat's Tooth. I have done the center variation, described below. The squeeze chimney on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is Touch and Go.
Center: Thin fingercrack to start, with thin feet. I liebacked up to where the crack widens to get gear, and moved up as the crack eased in difficulty. Do a funky move to exit the pinched shut chimney and walk left to the chains. Last 40 feet of the climb are shared with Touch and Go.
Left Variation: Looks wide (4-5") much of the way. I haven't done it. Guidebook says it is 5.9
NOTE: The Carville guide (1996) says the center is 5.9. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide says it is .10a, which I found to be more accurate.
Center: Thin fingercrack to start, with thin feet. I liebacked up to where the crack widens to get gear, and moved up as the crack eased in difficulty. Do a funky move to exit the pinched shut chimney and walk left to the chains. Last 40 feet of the climb are shared with Touch and Go.
Left Variation: Looks wide (4-5") much of the way. I haven't done it. Guidebook says it is 5.9
NOTE: The Carville guide (1996) says the center is 5.9. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide says it is .10a, which I found to be more accurate.
9 Comments