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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,417 total, 21/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jun 8, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

There are two different variations to the Rat's Tooth. I have done the center variation, described below. The squeeze chimney on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is Touch and Go.

Center: Thin fingercrack to start, with thin feet. I liebacked up to where the crack widens to get gear, and moved up as the crack eased in difficulty. Do a funky move to exit the pinched shut chimney and walk left to the chains. Last 40 feet of the climb are shared with Touch and Go.

Left Variation: Looks wide (4-5") much of the way. I haven't done it. Guidebook says it is 5.9

NOTE: The Carville guide (1996) says the center is 5.9. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide says it is .10a, which I found to be more accurate.

Location

Just left of Touch and Go and One Hand Clapping, on the left side of Black Wall. The distinctive Rat's Tooth is hard to miss.

Protection

Center variation: standard rack to #3 camalot

Photos

kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
The left variation is best led with one #4 and two #5s, though I led it with a #4, #5, and a #6 that just barely squeezes in towards the top. You can bump a single #5 the whole way if you don't need a backup.

You'll still need small gear for the shared top section.

Burly hand/fist stacks and calf or knee locks pretty much the whole way. Oct 30, 2017
Khick  
Looks like some one added anchors at the top before pulling onto the slab.
EDIT ^they chopped Oct 2, 2015
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
Pro Tip! - after you exit the funkiness and get onto the slab where the anchor is, back clean your last piece in the crack (that is if you didn't be a hardman and run it out). When you walk to the anchor the rope will push that piece deep into the crack and you won't get it back. There are Booty Pirates a plenty out there just waiting for you to do this so they can booty your goods!

This climb is fun with quite a variety of technique for a short pitch. Sep 13, 2015
Tahoe Matt
Truckee
Tahoe Matt   Truckee
Come on guys. It's Donner. Let's agree to disagree. Oldschool 5.9. It just prepares everyone for what's out there. Aug 31, 2015
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.10a
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.10a
I agree with Patrick. The lower section was strenuous and I had to take a lot and sew it up but it was straightforward. I thought the crux was the flaring bulging chimney move after the ledge just after the finger crack. I could have been just really tired from the finger crack though. Jun 27, 2014
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10b/c
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10b/c
I actually thought the lower section while strenuous was more straight forward than the flaring chimney deal before you hit the jugs in the middle of the vertical section. This was the first lead I did when I moved to Tahoe a decade ago and I remember thinking after the onsight (we did it as the first pitch to the link up Empty Overgo) that the grades in Tahoe were a lot stiffer than the grades in Vegas. Jul 10, 2012
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10a
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10a
The climb can be easily toproped via a directional BD .4-.5 just past the final pullover onto the slab section. The rope is easily flipped into position by walking up towards OHC and gettin your flip on. Have fun! Jun 22, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I agree with you, Bruce, the center route is burly for sure. I got it first go but it was committing with pumpy lie backing and insecure feet. I cleaned my own gear and it felt much easier, but that's knowing the route, being warmed up, and not worrying about placing gear in a taxing section. The onsight on this is definitely not a gimme and is a climb I'd place somewhere in the ten range. Oct 31, 2011
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10b
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10b
I found this quite challenging. Getting pro in the initial bottom section lieback is very pumpy.
I found the center section tricky to get good jams. It was rattly fingers for me, small hands would probably get good hand jams.
The escape from the top chimney is kind of awkward and a bit exposed.

Technical in places, strenuous in others, make this a great climb. But probably not ideal for the budding 5.10a leader Sep 28, 2011