Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Max Jones, Gary Allen 1976
Page Views: 1,286 total · 16/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jun 28, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Take the "One Hand" approach through the talus. Before reaching the base of the wall skirt around right through brush to a right-trending ramp. Slipstream is the right-trending undercling/finger crack that starts off of the slopey ramp. Look for a single bolt left of the crack up higher. This climb is similar to "Black Angel" in Tuolumne. This is the first pitch of the "Imaginary Voyage". Lower or rap from chains or do another pitch via "Next" or "No Stems no Seeds".

Protection

Gear to 2", bolt.

Photos

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Sometimes offset fingers were the cam to rock but largely .75" and smaller of any variety will see you through. With the exception of the 3" behind the flake/pod, of course.

Very cool flaring crack lie backs with an emphasis on footwork. I will be back for the rp. This climb should get tried more, it is quality. Looking forward to trying more of The Imaginary Voyage soon! Jul 4, 2014