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Routes in Left Side

Bliss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,174 total · 10/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jul 5, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Bliss, aka Bliss of the Knife is an excellent thin crack splitting the large face halfway up black wall, in between cannibal gully on the left and One Hand Clapping on the right.

Originally a 1960's A3 nailing route, this pitch has evolved into a finger locking, thin jamming and layback seam.

You must access the pitch from below, via One Hand and step left onto the face to some belay bolts. It is also possible to climb into this route via Bliss Direct, a mixed 5.12 route (the start of the original aid line.) The upper anchor is bolts below the overhang. It is possible to rap into it for a toprope (as I did) by rapping in from Lizard Ledge. Be sure to backclip the rappel and tie knots in the rope, it is difficult to swing into the anchor.

Location

See Description. It is also possible to climb in and set up a TR by climbing in from the left (corner above Overhanging Hangover) and traversing in below the big overhang.

Protection

THIN. Please keep in mind I toproped this route. That said, I think it would be a safe lead if you have adequate thin gear. Remember this is an old nailing route, there are good slots for small nuts, and places for small cams. Climb at your own risk.

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Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Given that you're posting this "climb at your own risk", does it warrant a danger rating? i.e. pg-13? Jul 5, 2009
It's not too scary with small gear Sep 10, 2009
V.X.
 
V.X.  
 
Good gear to #.75 Camalot, especially blue, yellow, orange TCU. Bring only one purple TCU. Not dangerous in any way. This route should get climbed more. Jun 28, 2012
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
The comments here along with a friend's vague assessment of this route's difficulty had me build this route up majorly in my head. I've continued on skywalker TWICE instead of going for it. I'm really glad I finally sacked up.

The opening moves are on a small nut, but it is a textbook placement. I didn't see it those first few times which is why I backed off. The route does really like small nuts, but the crux protects with cams if you want it. Beta tip: don't make the traverse the crux!

It's a great route and not scary at all once you seek out those few key placements. Mar 29, 2015
Blurie .
San Diego, Ca
 
Blurie .   San Diego, Ca
 
Really fun route, thin crack climbing with some slabby moves as well. Could use a good brushing.

TR beta: Climb something to lizard ledge and then get lowered to the base of Bliss. Clip bolts on the excellent 11+ roof "Don't Try This At Home" and the Bliss anchor as you go by. Maybe 1 finger cam for a directional on Bliss. Makes for 100 something feet of fun! Jan 2, 2018

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