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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner/Truckee
> Donner Pass
> Black Wall Area
> Black Wall
Primer
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 46
votes
Routes in Black Wall
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Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bliss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,069 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | caughtinside on Jul 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Access Notes
Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
TEMPORARY PEREGRINE FALCON CLOSURE ON BLACK WALL EFFECTIVE JUNE 14, 2017
Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 4:15pm
Temporary closure on the mid-section of Black Wall in effect as of June 14 because peregrine falcons are nesting under Sky Pilot. Both trail heads to Black Wall are posted with signs.
Affected routes are: Next, Birdy, All pitches on Imaginary Voyage and Super Slab
Thank you for respecting the seasonal closure.
Black Wall and nearby crags are a common nesting site for peregrine falcons.
The pair often nest in the ledge systems right of Touch and Go. If nesting activity/behavior is apparent please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid nearby climbing routes.
For more info: tdlandtrust.org/news/tempor…
Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 4:15pm
Temporary closure on the mid-section of Black Wall in effect as of June 14 because peregrine falcons are nesting under Sky Pilot. Both trail heads to Black Wall are posted with signs.
Affected routes are: Next, Birdy, All pitches on Imaginary Voyage and Super Slab
Thank you for respecting the seasonal closure.
Black Wall and nearby crags are a common nesting site for peregrine falcons.
The pair often nest in the ledge systems right of Touch and Go. If nesting activity/behavior is apparent please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid nearby climbing routes.
For more info: tdlandtrust.org/news/tempor…
Description
Primer is the short bit excellent crack in the dihedral of the Primer boulder, on the left side of Black Wall.
Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.
This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!
Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.
This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!
Los Alamos, NM
Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you're...er, uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying?? Oct 29, 2009
Oakland CA
Fight grade creep!
5.8+. Nov 16, 2009
Portlandia, OR
Northern Nevada
Reno, NV
SLO, CA
Gear beta: I used a yellow and orange metolius and .75 - 3 C4. Aug 12, 2016