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Routes in Left Side
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Bliss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bourbon Street T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | Max Jones and Tom Caramia |
| Page Views: | 2,299 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | caughtinside on Jul 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years.
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area
Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. The Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign, then purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs, in 2015.
Description
Primer is the short bit excellent crack in the dihedral of the Primer boulder, on the left side of Black Wall.
Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.
This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!
Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.
This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!
Los Alamos, NM
Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you're...er, uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying?? Oct 29, 2009
Oakland CA
Fight grade creep!
5.8+. Nov 16, 2009
Portlandia, OR
Northern Nevada
Reno, NV
SLO, CA
Gear beta: I used a yellow and orange metolius and .75 - 3 C4. Aug 12, 2016
North Lake Tahoe, CA