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Routes in Left Side

Bliss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Max Jones and Tom Caramia
Page Views: 2,299 total · 21/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jul 28, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details


Primer is the short bit excellent crack in the dihedral of the Primer boulder, on the left side of Black Wall.

Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.

This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!


On the boulder with the green face and dihedral 50 feet left of One Hand Clapping.


Finger and hand size cams. Bolted anchors equipped for lower off.


Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Nice crack! And a bit sustained--would be great to take laps on for endurance (unfortunately you are mostly just training your right side).

Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you', uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying?? Oct 29, 2009
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
That's the spirit!

Fight grade creep!

5.8+. Nov 16, 2009
Portlandia, OR
SKI Ski   Portlandia, OR
5.9, 5.9+ if you screw it up on the gear. Sep 20, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led this today mostly because it was in the shade. Nice route! I had no idea what the name or rating was and I can agree with the 5.9 rating. It is strenuous, but fairly short. Aug 5, 2012
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
This is a great little route. It might be short, but it sure gets the blood pumping. Save some strength for the last couple of moves. If it was longer I'd say 9+ Sep 21, 2012
M Alexander
M Alexander   SLO, CA
Fun, short, and stout. That left side is slick.

Gear beta: I used a yellow and orange metolius and .75 - 3 C4. Aug 12, 2016
Ryan Pfleger
North Lake Tahoe, CA
Ryan Pfleger   North Lake Tahoe, CA
Super fun! Mole's Corner's slightly meaner brother. If it were twice as long it would get an extra star. 4 days ago

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