Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ron Kauk (?)
Page Views: 2,478 total · 22/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jul 5, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Hungover Hangover is a 50 foot pitch halfway up the left side of Black Wall. From the belay bolts atop Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go, look up and spy this impressive looking handcrack!

This crack overhangs a tad, and runs between tight hands, hands and big hands, moving into a pod before swinging out over the slight lip and into slabbier territory.

The granite is highly features, with large cubic feldspar crystals on the face... and inside the crack! I highly recommend taping for this one, it is sharp in there and I got chewed up.

Finishes up above the overhang on some belay bolts. From here you can rap, climb Empty Sky (out left) continue up the big corner (not in guide, 5.7ish) or step right onto the face for a route out there.

Location

Halfway up the left side of the Black Wall. Access by climbing Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go.

Protection

Doubles of cams in the tight to big hand sizes. A couple finger sized pieces for the beginning of the crack.

Photos

Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
  5.10b
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
  5.10b
I climbed this again (first time in 6+ years) last night and have to say that this thing is a kick in the pants. While very different than Sanitation crack, it packs the same kind of punch in the 40" of overhanging thin hands. Aug 22, 2012
mac345
Reno, Nv
 
mac345   Reno, Nv
 
climbed this in may and had to take because the pain was unbearable and my hand went numb, also helmeted head got stuck in the pod whilst trying to move out. But the hand jams and feet are pretty secure, and takes great gear.just use tape it will make the send must less painful. all in all an awesome route Jun 5, 2013
I'll second the pain/tape comments. Ouch. I'm in no hurry to repeat this one. Sep 3, 2013
kolamjr
Tahoma, California
 
kolamjr   Tahoma, California
 
I am pretty sure Ron Kauk did FA of this awesome climb. Jan 15, 2015
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10a
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10a
Short and stout. And with tape, fun too.
The exit from the pod is a little awkward but the whole pitch takes great pro.

Did pitch 2 by going up the big corner and then cracks on the right face. Kinda dirty and vegetated in places. Nothing special but not terrible either. I don't think it sees much traffic. Next time I'll probably rap the 10a pitch then continue over to Touch and Go or Bourbon Street for a more satisfying finish. May 1, 2015
Christopher Rein  
5.10+
Does this really go at 10a?

I haven't fallen on 10a in a couple years. I hung twice and made it look really ugly getting up the overhanging section. I thought that this was significantly harder than new moon (10d) and bourbon street (10b). Jan 8, 2016