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Routes in Right Side

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Centex T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Licker Left TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
High Energy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Ron Kauk?
Page Views: 2,793 total · 23/month
Shared By: Colin Brochard on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

start in a thin finger crack and proceed onto awsome thin crimps on an almost vertical face, very sustained and technical for the grade

Location

Thin crack to the right of Rated X.

Protection

Thin gear in the crack and then runout face climbing to the top. Easy to TR after leading Rated X (5.7)

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
FA Ron Kauk? It's been led, but sure looks like thin and sparse gear.

EDIT: The old Eric Beck guide says the first pitch was freed by two guys before Kauk did it. Information is incomplete, but I would guess that Kauk got the FA on the second pitch. The first pitch is likely 5.10+, but a tricky lead on thin gear. Nov 16, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Just did this one again the other day. This is a stellar toprope, not to be missed if you do Rated X. The face is covered with interesting features and sustained .10 climbing. Really terrific! I saw at least 2 or 3 chopped lead bolts on the face.

I then toproped it again, trying to stay more in line with the crack that is a little right of where the best face holds are. It's an interesting conundrum... the best climbing is on the face and the crack is out of line, it actually feels contrived to stay near the crack! Definitely a little more difficult as well.

I scoped it with the lead in mind (plan to go back) and it looks plenty safe, just lots of small cams (blue aliens, etc.) Jun 18, 2009
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10
watch out for a couple hollow plates midway and towards the top, wouldn't want to pull these off onto your friends below! awesome route. Jul 30, 2010
It goes on gear but I had to run it out above the crack, which made for a terrifyingly-awesome lead. Aug 17, 2011
Lurker
Truckee, CA
 
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
 
Second pitch is definitely worthy, and probably goes at 5.10+. Both pitches take decent gear. Mar 10, 2012
T. Page
Truckee, CA
  5.11a PG13
T. Page   Truckee, CA
  5.11a PG13
Led this second pitch today after the first pitch of Rated X. It was full on, but can be protected with small nuts, C3's, medium/small under the roof. A blue/yellow offset master cam would have been crucial to protect a potential ground fall about half way up; wish I would have had one, takes nuts too though. It didn't seem like it sees too much traffic, but is a really good, if not bold, pitch. Two raps to the ground. May 14, 2012
Jeff Angermann 1
Reno, Nevada
  5.11a
Jeff Angermann 1   Reno, Nevada
  5.11a
Led P1 today. Gear beta:

(2) #2 WC rocks
(2 or 3) 0.1 camalot X4 / C3
(1) 0.4 camalot X4 / C3
(1) 0.5 camalot
(1) 0.75 camalot

Dispense with the stoppers if you have more microcams in the 0.1 size. The crack eats up this size. Jul 2, 2014
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Lead onsite this am. Not too bad of a lead. Protects quite well with small gear and small nuts, no need to RPs.

Key .3 and .5 placement to keep you off ground.

Fun variation breaking left up the runout face. There's a slot for .5 size about halfway up and then eases up. Jun 29, 2017
wsperry
Truckee, CA
 
wsperry   Truckee, CA
 
There is a tooth underling about 30' up this piece that has a chalked x on it. You can't see the "x" from below, so I pulled up into the underling and felt the tooth shift on me. Careful! Jun 29, 2018

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