Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Ron Kauk?
Page Views: 2,864 total · 23/month
Shared By: Colin Brochard on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details


Two-pitch route with a heavily-travelled first pitch, and an excellent but ignored second pitch.

P1:  Climb the thin crack to the right of Rated X, to a wide and relatively easy groove.  Belay at the large ledge.  If not doing the second pitch, head left to the Rated X anchors.
P2:  Climb another increasingly thin crack to a roof/bulge, moving left to the anchor.


Thin crack to the right of Rated X.


Gear to 3", doubles in smaller sizes.  Stoppers also useful.


Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
FA Ron Kauk? It's been led, but sure looks like thin and sparse gear.

EDIT: The old Eric Beck guide says the first pitch was freed by two guys before Kauk did it. Information is incomplete, but I would guess that Kauk got the FA on the second pitch. The first pitch is likely 5.10+, but a tricky lead on thin gear. Nov 16, 2008
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Just did this one again the other day. This is a stellar toprope, not to be missed if you do Rated X. The face is covered with interesting features and sustained .10 climbing. Really terrific! I saw at least 2 or 3 chopped lead bolts on the face.

I then toproped it again, trying to stay more in line with the crack that is a little right of where the best face holds are. It's an interesting conundrum... the best climbing is on the face and the crack is out of line, it actually feels contrived to stay near the crack! Definitely a little more difficult as well.

I scoped it with the lead in mind (plan to go back) and it looks plenty safe, just lots of small cams (blue aliens, etc.) Jun 18, 2009
watch out for a couple hollow plates midway and towards the top, wouldn't want to pull these off onto your friends below! awesome route. Jul 30, 2010
It goes on gear but I had to run it out above the crack, which made for a terrifyingly-awesome lead. Aug 17, 2011
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
Second pitch is definitely worthy, and probably goes at 5.10+. Both pitches take decent gear. Mar 10, 2012
T. Page
Truckee, CA
  5.11a PG13
T. Page   Truckee, CA
  5.11a PG13
Led this second pitch today after the first pitch of Rated X. It was full on, but can be protected with small nuts, C3's, medium/small under the roof. A blue/yellow offset master cam would have been crucial to protect a potential ground fall about half way up; wish I would have had one, takes nuts too though. It didn't seem like it sees too much traffic, but is a really good, if not bold, pitch. Two raps to the ground. May 14, 2012
Jeff Angermann 1
Reno, Nevada
Jeff Angermann 1   Reno, Nevada
Led P1 today. Gear beta:

(2) #2 WC rocks
(2 or 3) 0.1 camalot X4 / C3
(1) 0.4 camalot X4 / C3
(1) 0.5 camalot
(1) 0.75 camalot

Dispense with the stoppers if you have more microcams in the 0.1 size. The crack eats up this size. Jul 2, 2014
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Lead onsite this am. Not too bad of a lead. Protects quite well with small gear and small nuts, no need to RPs.

Key .3 and .5 placement to keep you off ground.

Fun variation breaking left up the runout face. There's a slot for .5 size about halfway up and then eases up. Jun 29, 2017
Truckee, CA
wsperry   Truckee, CA
There is a tooth underling about 30' up this piece that has a chalked x on it. You can't see the "x" from below, so I pulled up into the underling and felt the tooth shift on me. Careful! Jun 29, 2018