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Routes in Left Side

Bliss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Gene Drake, 90's
Page Views: 2,379 total · 19/month
Shared By: 426 on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Awesome mixed line up the overhang left of One Hand Clapping. A #3 friend and perhaps a few other pieces for the start of One Hand will put your mind at ease for the spectacular pebble pulling above.

Location

Climb one hand clapping until you are in the bulge handcrack. Look out left for some bolts...step around when possible, place a piece behind the "handrail" flake, then ape your way onto the superb face. Thin edges, pebbles and a variety of moves sees you through the tough sections...Amazing!

Protection

Bolts (6 or so) and gear. Light rack to #3...

Photos

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V.X.
5.11a
V.X.  
5.11a
It is possible to climb "There Goes the Neighborhood" to "Bliss" and lower back to the anchors on the top of "There Goes the Neighborhood" with one 70m, thus eliminating the need to belay from under the roof.

Some bolts were replaced 2011, the original holes were reused. Jun 27, 2012

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