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Routes in Right Side

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Centex T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Licker Left TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
High Energy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,868 total · 21/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Aug 6, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Starting on face holds, New Moon quickly joins up with a right leaning finger crack before you jog out left into the upper part of Firecracker crack about 15-20 feet before the roof. The finger crack gradually widens and the crux is probably some rattly fingers before you start getting thin hand jams. Eventually, the crack widens up and basically ends at a jug. At this point take that louie into Firecracker.

New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if your rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling like a run out. A higher quality start to a classic finish instead of doinking around on more pedestrian climbing is also yielded. Beautiful rock either way. The knowledge that at twilight hundreds of bats pour out of the roof section on Firecracker should comfort bat lovers too. Maybe not when you're cranking at the crux there, however.

Location

Just right of Firecracker on the ledge above and to the right of One Hand Clapping.

Protection

Finger-sized cams - 3" or 4" Camalot. Very well protected with a standard rack that includes a few smaller pieces.

Photos

Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
I figured I would get on this as a way to avoid the wide crack on Firecracker (didn't have anything larger than a #2 camalot) and got the send. It not a gimme but I found it more technical than powerful. Apr 22, 2013
Khick
 
Khick  
 
Thought the roof was still harder than the widening jams. Really fun though! Oct 15, 2014
Tahoe Matt
Truckee
Tahoe Matt   Truckee
The .5 fingers is the real crux. No gear above a #2 is needed for the linkup. Try not to reach out left to keep it legit. Sep 3, 2015
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Great route, the preferable start to the Firecracker roof if you ask me. There is an easy section after the New Moon crux so it's easy to de-pump and get some juice back before tackling the roof.

I still thought the roof was the crux. Jun 7, 2018

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