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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Hansi Standteiner
Page Views: 825 total, 13/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jul 2, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

This climb is the bolted face climb in-between "Sky Pilot" (around the corner to right) and the splitter third pitch of "Next" (on the face immediately to the left). Start on the bomber ledge and take the thin horizontal seam out right. Place some small gear, notice the wild exposure, and go up the steep face. This climb is well protected by Donner standards, but it will feel a little more run because of a couple hard clips. Bolts were drilled on on lead, sometimes off hooks. A cool climb and must do if you are in that area of the wall. This climb is not "jingus" : )

Might as well climb the third pitch of "Next" while you are up there. Descend from chains.

Protection

Small cams, bolts.

Photos

Tahoe Matt
Truckee
Tahoe Matt   Truckee
Glad to see I made the photo. For all those out there the fall through the crux is clean. Heady, but clean. A fun exposure route. Sep 3, 2015
kolamjr
Tahoma, California
 
kolamjr   Tahoma, California
 
Hansi Standteiner put this climb up by bolting it on lead. Think about that as you climb it. It is a beautiful climb! Jan 15, 2015