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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Max Jones, Geoff Smith, 77
Page Views: 1,195 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tyson Waldron on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

The Route

Pitch 1: climb your choice of the Touch and Go chimney/hand crack behind Rat's Tooth, or Rats Tooth, and belay from the Hungover Hangover anchors, which are about ~8ft below the start of the Hungover Hangover jam crack. There are other ways to get to this belay station, but these two are the most classic.

Pitch 2: Climb the overhanging face/arete left of Hungover Hangover, which has 3 tightly spaced bolts. You should be able to clip the first bolt before cranking any real moves, which is good because the face is very much on you from the start. It is grainy, crimpy, overhung, and a bit stout at the grade (.10c).

After pulling through the crux you will be standing on a tiny ledge on the arete and looking up a shallow corner, which is a bit chossy by Donner standards. It protects though, bring .4 to 2" pieces. Climb up this corner which will end on a clean, blunt, and slabby arete. Climb past two new bolts in about 40ft of climbing. I would guess there is about 25ft between the two bolts, and the climbing isn't dead simple through here. Consensus seems to be .10a PG-13. If it was grid bolted, we would all be downgrading it I'm sure. Stay focused, and choose the path of least resistance. The rock is bulletproof. Trust your smears and edges to get through this very good head crux.

Once past the second bolt, there are a few more opportunities for pro, and the difficulties have mostly relented at this point. Find your way into the last few feet of the Touch and Go corner, which will put you on top of Lizard Ledge.

You can rap with a 70m from here using the the anchors on the climbers right of lizard ledge, the One Hand Clapping anchors. You will rap to the start of the Bliss/Skywalker anchors, and then to the ground. It is close getting to the Bliss anchors, so knot those ends.

Location

Approach to the One Hand Clapping belay area. Climb Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go Chimney.

Protection

5 new bolts. Pro to 3"

Photos

Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.10c PG13
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
  5.10c PG13
Thanks Justin, page has been updated. Jun 24, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Hey Tyson, since you have the beta, I'll move this semi-orphaned page to your account. Then you can update to your heart's content, heh. Rick hasn't been here in like five years. Jun 4, 2014
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.10c PG13
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
  5.10c PG13
I think this listing should be called 'Empty Sky Direct' as described.

Patrick, I think you are right, what you climbed is Empty Overgo. 'Empty Sky' as I understand it is climbing the first two pitches of Skywalker, then finishing on the Empty Sky arete same as Empty Overgo, which clocks in at .10a, and probably warrants a PG-13 distinction.

'Empty Sky Direct', is the slightly overhanging, grainy, crimpy .10c face climbing past 3 closely placed bolts. Start at the Hungover Hangover belay anchors and go up the left facing arete, left of Hungover Hangover.

I've added a beta photo to hopefully help this fairly confusing area. May 14, 2014
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10 PG13
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10 PG13
I did this as a link up, climbing the 1st pitch of the Rat's Tooth, Hungover Hangover as pitch two, then Empty Sky as pitch 3. I was told that this link up is called Empty Overgo. Its a deserving link up at the grade. Dec 7, 2011