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Routes in Kudos Left

Ambushed in the Night T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Duppy Conquer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Get out of I-rete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kreutzer , The S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kudos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Step into the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brad Johnson and John Robinson
Page Views: 4,185 total, 75/month
Shared By: John Robinson on May 15, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Just Left of Duppy Conqueror. See Mike Carville's 1991 guide book or the current topo on the main Emeralds page for information and location. Shade till 2 pm then shaded by trees. This climb gets a little harder if you are shorter. (Some reachy moves). After you get to the top of this climb it is easy to set up a top rope for the Climb just right (Duppy Conqueror 5.11c)

Protection

7 or 8 bolts and lower off anchors

Photos

Alex McKenzie
Nevada city, California
  5.10c
Alex McKenzie   Nevada city, California
  5.10c
This route didn't seem any harder than 5.10c, even though, being 14 years old, am short, at only 5'5.

I do agree the crux is the middle, however. Oct 20, 2017
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
 
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
 
People are complaining that you will deck if you fall before clipping the second bolt. I don't think that is the case if you have an attentive belayer. (That second bolt was added after the climb was established, so just think of the decking potential without it). Climbing is a dangerous sport but certainly, Brad, Mike and I want it to be as safe as possible so give us more of your opinions on the fall potential before clipping the second bolt and we can adjust things if that is popular. Nov 24, 2016
Jiehan
 
Jiehan  
 
Awesome climb! The compression move at the crux totally kicked my butt. Sep 25, 2016
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.10d
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.10d
What an amazing climb. Lots of different types of moves. I agree that if you slip before the second clip, you will almost certainly deck.

If you are under 5'8", this is more of a 10.d. In the middle of the climb, there is a left-leaning crack/flare with a small opening at the top of it large enough for 1-2 fingers. If you are under 5'8", you'll have to smear on what feels like nothing and jump for the hold to advance. Jun 19, 2016
Christopher Clobus
  5.10c/d
Christopher Clobus  
  5.10c/d
Solid route and bolted perfectly! I felt like it was more 10d but ratings all relative right? Right?! May 31, 2016
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
If you blow it just before clipping the second bolt you will deck. Cruxy up top after the 6th bolt. Great climb! May 26, 2016
One of the best climbs at The Emeralds Apr 23, 2016
Area classic. Great technical climbing. I would go out of my way to do this climb. Aug 26, 2015
Taylor Currier 1
South Lake Tahoe, California
 
Taylor Currier 1   South Lake Tahoe, California
 
This route was good fun. Well bolted and easy to TR the 11c next to it. Sep 19, 2014
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
 
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
 
J. Albers: If the mussy hooks at the top are a problem. Some of the times when these were used the 1/4 inch pins were inserted upside down. If the head of the pin is facing the rock there is no way the pin can come out cause it will be held in by the rock, even if the small cotter key came out. Turn this pin around if you want (if it was placed wrong) or replace the whole thing if you want. May 2, 2014
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
 
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
 
We added a bolt so this route is no longer PG13. Change out the top anchor if you wish May 2, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10c
Great route. The bolting job during the climb is great, but the anchor is totally jingus. I'm a big fan of fat clip-and-go tow hooks (i.e. mussy hooks), but the rigs on this route are attached to the janky homemade hangers with small little pins. I just shook my head when I clipped these things...if I still lived in CA I would swap them out myself. Apr 13, 2014
Tibo
  5.10c
Tibo  
  5.10c
Well bolted. Not PG13. Oct 7, 2013
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.10c
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.10c
Awesome route! Super classic! Jul 12, 2013