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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Night Gallery aka Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Max Jones and Gary Allen, 1979
Page Views: 5,076 total · 26/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details


Little Feat is located on the blunt arete directly facing you as you first arrive at the east-facing routes on Snowshed wall. There are five or six crux moves on the route punctuated by a couple of good rests.


6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, there's a slight runout before the first bolt, but the 'R' Rating in Carville's book is pretty unneccessary.You could set up a toprope by hiking around to the left and ascending the third class gully.


The R rating on this climb is for the orginal route without bolts. I believe the rating was 10B. It was a very rewarding lead. Now it is just another quality sport climb Aug 15, 2003
"You wouldn't have wanted to onsight it without preview like we did," according to Max Jones. Many of the "leads" at Donner (esp. Snowshed) by Max, Bullet and crew were "highly dialed" according to Max. Apr 17, 2007
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Pretty stout for .10d, I give it .11a/b which is consistent with what other folks at the crag were saying.

Crux for me was clipping the first bolt (kinda scary), tech crux was between the fifth bolt and sixth bolt (very sequencey) and physical crux between the sixth bolt and the chains (my arms were pretty shot at this point).

Definitely no "R" rating despite what Falcon book says. Guys at the crag were talking about the few brave souls that led this route on gear before it was bolted... impressive. Jul 20, 2009
peachy spohn  
I thought that this route was quite difficult for the grade given here and in the new guide book. Better make sure you're a solid solid solid 10+ climber (or just a solid 5.11 climber) before you get on this. Aug 25, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
This is a rewarding lead indeed!

One of my Donner Pass face climbing favorites. Watch that second clip!

I will honor the original rating while knowing better in my heart. Aug 10, 2014
Shaun Johnson
Shaun Johnson  
Rowdy for a "5.10" sport climb. Sep 1, 2016
Pavel K  
Somehow I found this climb much harder than Aerial, though they are rated the same.
Felt like the first three bolts were physical climbing and the rest was very technical and "trust your feet". I took a good number of falls at the fourth bolt.
Overall a great climb. Aug 5, 2017
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
To start left or start right is the question...
There's no easy part to this climb, but getting from the 4th to 5th bolt I found most difficult. It's tempting to go out left (plenty of chalk there) and try traversing back right to the (5th?) bolt, but I ended up going straight up after attempting the left option several times. Aug 15, 2017
Ryan Pfleger
North Lake Tahoe, CA
Ryan Pfleger   North Lake Tahoe, CA
Fun route. Felt a bit harder than Aerial. Sep 5, 2017
Climbed this a few weeks back. Nearly all the bolts are spinners and need to be tightened. Brings some of the OG fear factor back, I guess. Sep 4, 2018

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