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Routes in Snowshed Wall

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Max Jones and Gary Allen, 1979
Page Views: 4,496 total, 24/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

Little Feat is located on the blunt arete directly facing you as you first arrive at the east-facing routes on Snowshed wall. There are five or six crux moves on the route punctuated by a couple of good rests.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, there's a slight runout before the first bolt, but the 'R' Rating in Carville's book is pretty unneccessary.You could set up a toprope by hiking around to the left and ascending the third class gully.

Photos

Ryan Pfleger
Tahoe, CA
Ryan Pfleger   Tahoe, CA
Fun route. Felt a bit harder than Aerial. Sep 5, 2017
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.11c
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.11c
Oomph!
To start left or start right is the question...
There's no easy part to this climb, but getting from the 4th to 5th bolt I found most difficult. It's tempting to go out left (plenty of chalk there) and try traversing back right to the (5th?) bolt, but I ended up going straight up after attempting the left option several times. Aug 15, 2017
Pavel K  
Somehow I found this climb much harder than Aerial, though they are rated the same.
Felt like the first three bolts were physical climbing and the rest was very technical and "trust your feet". I took a good number of falls at the fourth bolt.
Overall a great climb. Aug 5, 2017
Shaun Johnson
  5.11a
Shaun Johnson  
  5.11a
Rowdy for a "5.10" sport climb. Sep 1, 2016
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a rewarding lead indeed!

One of my Donner Pass face climbing favorites. Watch that second clip!

I will honor the original rating while knowing better in my heart. Aug 10, 2014
peachy spohn  
 
I thought that this route was quite difficult for the grade given here and in the new guide book. Better make sure you're a solid solid solid 10+ climber (or just a solid 5.11 climber) before you get on this. Aug 25, 2012
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a/b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a/b
Pretty stout for .10d, I give it .11a/b which is consistent with what other folks at the crag were saying.

Crux for me was clipping the first bolt (kinda scary), tech crux was between the fifth bolt and sixth bolt (very sequencey) and physical crux between the sixth bolt and the chains (my arms were pretty shot at this point).

Definitely no "R" rating despite what Falcon book says. Guys at the crag were talking about the few brave souls that led this route on gear before it was bolted... impressive. Jul 20, 2009
426
 
426  
 
"You wouldn't have wanted to onsight it without preview like we did," according to Max Jones. Many of the "leads" at Donner (esp. Snowshed) by Max, Bullet and crew were "highly dialed" according to Max. Apr 17, 2007
The R rating on this climb is for the orginal route without bolts. I believe the rating was 10B. It was a very rewarding lead. Now it is just another quality sport climb Aug 15, 2003