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Routes in South Star Wall

A Steep Climb Named Desire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ali S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bronco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bucko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cookie Mix S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dilletante S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Father's Day T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Juggernut, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Megalomania S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Narcissist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On the Outskirts of Hope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Open Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Scruples S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Star Walls Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taste the Pain S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Vernalagnia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warp Factor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

South Star Wall features high-quality, overhanging climbing on featured granite. This is the hardman/woman crag for the Donner area and hosts a number of independent lines, and a bunch more link-ups.  Although Cookie Mix (.12a) was the long-standing warmup for the area, a handful of sub-5.12 routes have recently been bolted on the far right side of the wall.

Due to it's aspect and overhanging nature, South Star stays relatively dry and a has a comparatively long season, as far as Donner Summit crags go. In the heat of summer it's best to wait until the afternoon, after the wall has gone into the shade.

Getting There

Park at School Rock and walk right on the PCT. After passing a low overhanging wall with a short bolted line, split left up a climber's trail. Stay above some short (30') slabs and walk along the base.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Star Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in South Star Wall »

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Photos

V.X.  
All in situ carabiners are now upgraded to quality steel bent gates thanks to a very generous and motivated local. No more sharp edged junk carabiners on entire wall. This is a huge improvement in safety. Thank you! Mar 25, 2013
Does anyone know if this wall stays dry on rainy days? Oct 9, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Yes people often snowshoe out there in winter. Oct 10, 2016
MarcoB  
Hi all,

here's a small topo of the crag, enjoy!

Star wall TOPO Oct 24, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
^^^^

Thanks Marco super cool! Oct 25, 2016

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