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Elevation: 7,129 ft
GPS: 39.32202, -120.32274
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,781 total · 396/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 10, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

South Star Wall features high-quality, overhanging climbing on featured granite. This is the hardman/woman crag for the Donner area and hosts a number of independent lines, and a bunch more link-ups.  Although Cookie Mix (.12a) was the long-standing warmup for the area, a handful of sub-5.12 routes have recently been bolted on the far right side of the wall.

Due to it's aspect and overhanging nature, South Star stays relatively dry and a has a comparatively long season, as far as Donner Summit crags go. In the heat of summer it's best to wait until the afternoon, after the wall has gone into the shade.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at School Rock and walk right on the PCT. After passing a low overhanging wall with a short bolted line, split left up a climber's trail. Stay above some short (30') slabs and walk along the base.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: South Star Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Star Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Parasite
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Ali
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 83
Cookie Mix
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Megalomania
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Vernalagnia
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Bucko
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
On The Outskirts Of Hope
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 31
Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough)
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 23
Bronco
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Star Wars Crack
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 51
Warp Factor
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker)
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 13
Taste The Pain
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 6
A Steep Climb Named Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Parasite
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ali
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cookie Mix
 83
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Megalomania
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vernalagnia
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bucko
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
On The Outskirts Of Hope
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Just Add Water (aka Cookie…
 31
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Bronco
 23
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Star Wars Crack
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
Warp Factor
 51
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker)
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Taste The Pain
 13
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
A Steep Climb Named Desire
 6
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Star Wall »

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