Elevation: 7,129 ft
GPS: 39.322, -120.323 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,757 total · 306/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 10, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Kyle Bishop, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

South Star Wall features high-quality, overhanging climbing on featured granite. This is the hardman/woman crag for the Donner area and hosts a number of independent lines, and a bunch more link-ups.  Although Cookie Mix (.12a) was the long-standing warmup for the area, a handful of sub-5.12 routes have recently been bolted on the far right side of the wall.

Due to it's aspect and overhanging nature, South Star stays relatively dry and a has a comparatively long season, as far as Donner Summit crags go. In the heat of summer it's best to wait until the afternoon, after the wall has gone into the shade.

Getting There

Park at School Rock and walk right on the PCT. After passing a low overhanging wall with a short bolted line, split left up a climber's trail. Stay above some short (30') slabs and walk along the base.

22 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Star Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at South Star Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 21
Ali
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
The Juggernut
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Dilletante
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 58
Cookie Mix
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Megalomania
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Vernalagnia
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
Bucko
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 16
On The Outskirts Of Hope
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough)
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 16
Bronco
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Star Wars Crack
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 34
Warp Factor
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker)
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 9
Taste The Pain
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 6
A Steep Climb Named Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ali
 21
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Juggernut
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dilletante
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cookie Mix
 58
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Megalomania
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vernalagnia
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bucko
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
On The Outskirts Of Hope
 16
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Just Add Water (aka Cookie…
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Bronco
 16
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Star Wars Crack
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
Warp Factor
 34
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker)
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Taste The Pain
 9
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
A Steep Climb Named Desire
 6
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Star Wall »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos