McDuff’s Rock Climbing

A secluded, 30-foot-tall roadside wall with a small selection of challenging routes.  Most routes here focus on small finger cracks and crimping, as well as some face climbing with committing bouldering moves. Receives morning sun and then shade for the rest of the day (except for maybe summer when the sun is high). The rock is lichen-covered, and while clean and appearing to be maintained to some degree, the area doesn’t appear to see a lot of traffic.  It offers a very quiet reprieve from the more heavily-trafficked Donner areas.  But that comes with it some inconveniences.

No bolts or chains are present, however a nearby power pole, a large (sappy!) tree trunk, and/or slung boulders can serve as a very secure top anchor. For top roping, consider bringing 50 ft of 11mm static line and a cordelette or two if you want SRENE anchor redundancy and for the anchor to reach over the edge properly. Not an easy or advisable anchor setup for beginners. Possibly bring a small rack for directionals, though I couldn’t find suitable placements up top.  Watch your step up top for random old rusted metal wire lying on the ground amongst some of the talus.  Not dangerous, but certainly a trip hazard

Gear placements appear small and limited at best.  If leading these routes, they might be considered PG13 or Runout.