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Suggested Page Improvements to Touch and Go
Height (ft): 370
Pitches: 4
Description Suggestion
NOTE: The Carville guide shows this as a right hand variation to the Rat's Tooth. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide shows this as Touch and Go. Given the volume of errors in the Carville guide, I think this is touch and go.
P1 - On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is the first pitch of this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney! Physical moves up steep rock will get your heart pumping. Shares the last 40' with the Rat's Tooth, to some chains.
P2 - From the Anchor step around to the left. You can go up and over or stay low (we stayed low). From here climb a 5.7 hand crack in a corner to a slopey belay ledge beneath a dihedral (gear anchor) or belay from an anchor way out left beneath rambo crack (not optimal).
P3 - tackle the steep dihedral all the way to lizard ledge. I think the route traverses right at some point to the arete, but I stayed in the dihedral the whole way (turns into a stembox at the top). It does get a little dirty toward the end if you do it this way, the traverse right may be better.
P4 - finish one of the many pitches to the top or rap from lizard ledge
P1 - On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is the first pitch of this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney! Physical moves up steep rock will get your heart pumping. Shares the last 40' with the Rat's Tooth, to some chains.
P2 - From the Anchor step around to the left. You can go up and over or stay low (we stayed low). From here climb a 5.7 hand crack in a corner to a slopey belay ledge beneath a dihedral (gear anchor) or belay from an anchor way out left beneath rambo crack (not optimal).
P3 - tackle the steep dihedral all the way to lizard ledge. I think the route traverses right at some point to the arete, but I stayed in the dihedral the whole way (turns into a stembox at the top). It does get a little dirty toward the end if you do it this way, the traverse right may be better.
P4 - finish one of the many pitches to the top or rap from lizard ledge
First Ascent: Kim Schmitz and Norm Simmons, 1971
