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Early Access
Routes in Little Eiger
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"Is Our Children Learning?" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Haul T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Hole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bonehead S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Busch Gardens S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bush Administration S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conehead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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DeCappitator, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Decider, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eiffel Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eiger Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eiger Sanction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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First Impressions S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Footloose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Up The Weed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Green Zone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Headline T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Herbal Essence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Petite Odyssèe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Misunderestimate S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Naked Hedge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Natural Selection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nordwand, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Persistent Vegetative State S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Radometer in the Red Zone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tierra Del Fuego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tierra Del Fuego (extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Too! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trouthead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tsunami Of Charisma S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 39.7432, -105.2991 |
| FA: | K. Trout, O. Mitchell, P. Prandoni, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 3,727 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 3, 2003 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This is a wee bit obscure...maybe not as obscure as the routes to the right and left. This is an "old" gear route on the left side of the Little Eiger Wall in a small, grungy alcove just a bit left of Bonehead. It is interesting for historical reasons, perhaps, or for the curious. It is probably the easier of the 2 overhanging crack lines here. It is good for a pump. It has a manky anchor as of 1998.
Fire this short, pumpy crack that give a workout for its short, perhaps - 25 feet, length. It seemed to increase the pump at the end. The jams are good. It is probably 5.8 at the Gunks. It has no bolts. The anchor required faith.
Protection
Rack: #2.5 Friend, nut, #2 Friend, nut, green Alien, #0.5 Friend + slings for the anchor.
Per Dwight Jugornot: there are currently lowering biners at the anchors.
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