Laughing at the Moon
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 86 votes
Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
FA: | Richard and Joyce Rossiter |
Page Views: | 5,343 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on May 19, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a nice pitch of face climbing on the upper end of the West Ridge. It is somewhat runout, but the cruxy sections generally have a bolt or pin nearby.
Begin with the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy. This can be found at the top of the West Ridge, down and around the corner to the right from the clean slab of Prince of Darkness. It is easily recognized by the short right slanting finger crack about 15 feet off the ground. Climb up to the slanting crack, and follow it to the right. Follow the corners up until you are below the steep and obvious crux corner of Muscular Dystrophy. Place some well runnered pro and head left and up on precarious looking flakes and blocks to a slot behind a large block. Belay here off a #3 and #2 Camalots (a #4 Friend is nice, too). You should see a bolt above you on the clean face. Now the fun really begins...
Climb past the bolt and straight up to a second bolt that is hidden from below. Head straight past this bolt over runout ground (possible marginal #0 or #1 TCU placements) until you can clip a pin in a horizontal crack. Hand traverse left past a second pin, but not so far left that you are on the arete. Head up and slightly right past another bolt and the crux moves to the top (climb the face, not the arete). There is a single belay bolt that can possibly be backed up with a tree or some creative cam/nut placements.
Begin with the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy. This can be found at the top of the West Ridge, down and around the corner to the right from the clean slab of Prince of Darkness. It is easily recognized by the short right slanting finger crack about 15 feet off the ground. Climb up to the slanting crack, and follow it to the right. Follow the corners up until you are below the steep and obvious crux corner of Muscular Dystrophy. Place some well runnered pro and head left and up on precarious looking flakes and blocks to a slot behind a large block. Belay here off a #3 and #2 Camalots (a #4 Friend is nice, too). You should see a bolt above you on the clean face. Now the fun really begins...
Climb past the bolt and straight up to a second bolt that is hidden from below. Head straight past this bolt over runout ground (possible marginal #0 or #1 TCU placements) until you can clip a pin in a horizontal crack. Hand traverse left past a second pin, but not so far left that you are on the arete. Head up and slightly right past another bolt and the crux moves to the top (climb the face, not the arete). There is a single belay bolt that can possibly be backed up with a tree or some creative cam/nut placements.
Protection
For Laughing at the Moon proper, only 5 or 6 QDs are needed (although a tiny cam or two might make you happier). However, bring finger through fist sized cams and a set of nuts for the approach pitch and belay.
Due to the runout nature of the pitch, and the fact that you need to place gear to get to this climb, it's trad not sport.
Due to the runout nature of the pitch, and the fact that you need to place gear to get to this climb, it's trad not sport.
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