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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Ruby's Cafe 

5.13-

   

FA: Lisa Gnade
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.13- [details]
Length: 70 feet
Views: 1,215 page views

Submitted By: m-earle on Mar 19, 2007


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Rich pullin out of the switching corners crux


Description 

A thin start leads to changing corners, which puts you under an intimidating roof. A series of badass moves sets you up for thin laybacking to the anchors. Very sustained!


Location 

This incredible line lies inbetween "The Last Battle," and Digital Readout.


Protection 

6 or so yellow Aliens, a few green.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 11, 2007

For those of you who know (and hopefully love) the colorful desert hermit/IC climber extraordinaire Alf Randell, or "Alf", you will appreciate this vignette:

Apparently, Alf had done this climb in the dark past with stoppers and tri-cams. Think 1970s. Think bad-ass. And think of my friend, Herb Crimp, a burly climber in his own right, but a modern child weaned on SLCDs and sticky rubber. Touting the more illustrious ascent, Alf guilt-tripped Herb into leading this route. Herb flailed, but flailed respectively, eventually gaining the anchors. Upon lowering, Herb complained, "just because Alf leads something in 1975 with stoppers and tri-cams doesn't mean I have to lead it."

Wise words. You had to be there.