The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Where's Waldo? The 11+ offwidth testpiece, Big Bab...
Description
This line is located near the left side of the Battle of the Bulge Wall and would be hard to miss.
Start underneath a one-foot roof and climb a wide-hands crack for 15ft. to the roof. Be careful of the loose flakes inside this initial crack. Pull over the roof on fists to wide fists. Battle up the crack for another 30ft. until you can get a knee in. Work up the crack as it gradually widens to chain anchors.
I got some key beta afterwards from Vera the offwidth master, who recommended climbing the route in sticky rubber approach shoes. I had a hard time keeping my feet from slipping and I agree that approach shoes would give you that extra little width for good foot jams.
Location
On the left end of Battle of the Bulge Wall, immediately left of Our Piece of the Real Estate.
Protection
(based on the old camalot size) #3.5, (3) #4, (3)4.5, (3) #5 camalot. New #6 Camalots are good too for the top. There's also a single piton bolt almost 1/2 way up, just before you can get your knee in the crack. FYI - The new #6 camalots are too large for the crack.
By Danny Inman From: Westminster Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.11
Getting established above the roof was burley, for me it was very rattly fists. Sure one can lay it back, but why deprive yourself? As my first "real" desert offwidth, I learned a lot on this thing. Very different technique required than other offwidths that I have done. Suffice to say, my hip flexors and abs got a full workout. I will return after my technique improves. Also, as stated in the description, the new BD #6 definitely does not fit here.
By Steven Lucarelli From: Glenwood Springs, CO Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.11
This is a great route and a real test of your offwidth skills. If your hands are to small to get fists over the roof then your in for some real trouble. After fighting your way past the pin you should be able to get your knee in and finally rest (kind of). Have fun.
I went up there with just two new No. 5s (Camalots) and was wishing I had a No. 6 for the last 10-15 feet. Those No. 5s were tipped out for much of the last part. I have a hard time believing that a No. 6 would not fit up there.
This is a hard and interesting route requiring multiple OW techniques.
The gear beta for the route isn't totally correct. You can easily fit a #6 Wild Country Friend or new #6 Camalot in the crack for about half the route. If you only have old #5 Camalots they will be very tipped out. I would recommend two #6 Friends or Camalots. You can also use #2 Bigbros for much of the route, and there are a few spots where a #3 Bigbro will work.
yeah, when i did it a 6 friend was useful for a lot of the upper half, particularly the last stretch to the anchors. definitely worth bringing. i thought the crux was the roof. i had heard it was fists, but it was off fists for me and required a change in plan-of-attack.
I agree with the guys above, two WC#6 or new camalot #6 are nice to have. The guidebook seems to have given bad presendence on giving detailed gear-beta for routes obviously not done by the author.
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