The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is a good warm up route. Thin hands move off the ground to a good jam where you can stop to place gear. Climb up in to the corner and wrestle with the "Railroad Tracks" There are a couple of good stem rests. Once the crack on the right widens you can move in to it and jam to the top.
Location
One of the first routes when you get to the base of the cliff, It is a few lines to the Left of Swedin-Ringle
Protection
Camalots 2 #1s, 2 #2s, 2 #3s Maybe 1 #3.5 A yellow or green alien for the corner if you like
Bear paws beware, first time around I did some 11c face/arete climbing to avoid the thin left crack. For me the the only way to do it straight in is with a footless move from a ringlock and a rattly fingerlock to a thin hand jam. My friend who is tall and have thinner hands than I have found the upper part harder then the start.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 23, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Thuggy for the low difficulty. What can I say about such a short route? Fun for no longer than it was, but not worth cueing up for unless you finish on Mystery Machine and head up to the top.
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