Ouch. This is the obvious and painful looking fingers crack just left of the Cave Route. The first 35-40 feet are tough, but do-able, with the assorted features on the face for feet. The last fifteen feet to the anchors are just incredibly hard, a fingertips crack with very few foot features. I still haven't figured out this crux.
The crux is easy: Jam really hard in the first 40' so that your fingers are numb by the time you get to the rest before the crux. Rest at the last footholds, bite your tongue, paste your feet and f--ing crank to the chains!
I think one star is harsh. This is a fantastic climb if you are climbing at the grade. By the way I definately am not climbing at the grade. This thing is hard and placing gear is really tough.
No where near a clean lead, I ended up aiding the upper half. But. . . 2 Blue aliens and 6 or so green is all you need for this pitch!! My fingers still hurt.. .
tough moves getting off the ground. decent fingers for the middle, one or two foot rests, but the last 15 feet the crack goes back to tips. if you send this route, dont expect to have anything left resembling fingers.
The crux isn't hard to figure out . . . Just hard to DO!!! Made it up this time w/out aid but still took a few for the team!! Decided to sprint the last 10ft to the anchs... desperation set in, fingers came out and, I went down!! Fun ride though!! Save this for the last climb of the trip or your fingers won't be worth shit for the next route!!
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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