Near the crux. You can see three strikes your out...
Description
For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one. Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is immeadiately to the right. The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.
Protection
I would say doubles in sizes of yellow aliens through red camalot, with triples of #.5 and #.75 camalots. Bring a green alien or blue TCU for the finish.
I tr'd the extension this weekend. I believe its called Aire-Sweden (.13b). The crux is ultra-desparate arete slapping while crimping the crack. I think its only seen one ascent. Definitely worth tr'ing. We rigged the tr from three strikes.
Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains.
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.12b
Great line that gets progressively harder - the finger stacks get you pumped for the crux at the top. Good gear the whole way so go for it!
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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