Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, In...
Description
The best corner on a wall with countless superb corners. Just left of Black Corner, this climb is extremely hand-size dependent...it is at just that point where many people can get tight hand jams (i.e. feels 5.11ish) while others will need to lieback forever (thus 5.12-). There are a few rests on this one, so be on the lookout for features to stem to. Milk the high rest for all its worth because the crux section begins just afterwards.
Protection
A whole mess of #2 friends (though you certainly don't need the recommended number from the guide- 12!) or a mix of #.75 and #1 camalots. You can use bigger pieces in a few pods. You'll need 2 ropes for this one.
I onsighted this some years ago. It was my best effort of the trip. The rest high is a bleb on the right side that you can stem and plaster your body in with. The section afterwards just rejects a #1 camalot-I got one in with two cams engaged and decided to go for it. Best to have a 3/4 camalot ready, otherwise you risk a 40 footer getting through. One of those situations where breakfast just stays down.
The term bleb generically means an inclusion, usually rounded, of one material within another. It is used alot in mineralogical and petrological descriptions.
What does it take to earn 4-stars? This route has stellor rock, sustained jamming, a distinct crux UP HIGH, length and a fun (not giveaway) finish. Give it the 4-stars it deserves. There are not many better corners at the Creek.
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
RSS Feed
