The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is the third of the left facing corner liebacks on Battle of the Bulge Buttress. This route is directly above the Donnelly Canyon parking area at the point where Battle of the Bulge curves around into Donnelly Canyon.
If you've done Black Corner and Battle of the Bulge, the drill should be familiar. Boulder up to the bottom of the corner proper, place some gear as high as you can reach, and go for it. As with Black Corner, this route has rests.
This pitch protects well using just Camalots too. 4(.75), about 6-7(#1) and 1 or 2(#2). Very sustained. Good hand jams halfway lead to more thin hands/liebacking.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.11b
A very good pitch of nothing but liebacking that tests your endurance (remember not to put your gear too high).
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.10+
stem it, jam it, or lay back. steming it is the most dificult way good for setting a tr on swedin ringle
I think this is a fair bit easier than Battle of the Bulge. After the first 20 feet or so its pretty much all red camalots with some slightly larger jams for rests (you can slip a couple gold camalots in up higher). Really fun.
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