View from the Scarface wall
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A great area with a fairly good selection of climbs, with most residing in the 5.11 range. Since it faces due south it gets good sun all day long and is climbable on all but the coldest days - which also means a miserable experience if you go up there when it's hot. While up there, you'll experience some of the best views in the region.
Most of the climbing is bound by two great routes - Black Uhuru on the left and Wavy Gravy (worth the walk) on the right. In between lots of great climbs can be found, including the mega-classic Scarface.
Continue past the Supercrack area for several miles on 211 as it winds its way along the cliffs. The large parking area can be found on the left side of the road just after a sharp left curve that goes into a long straightaway. The lot is several hundred yards before a fence and cattle guard, about a half mile before the reservoir, and a mile or so before the Beef Basin road junction.
Due north from the lot, look up for the prominent buttress gleaming in the sun. Find a good trail across the road and follow it as is dips into a wash before heading up talus to the base. Upon reaching the base, the majority of the climbs can be found on the left.
Weather station 12.0 miles from here
51 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Scarface
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Scarface
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Scarface:
Scard Face 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Wavy Gravy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Black Uhuru 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Your Mama 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Unknown 10+ 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Big Guy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Sicilian 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Scarface 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Big Jon 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Featured Route For Scarface
Comic Relief 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Scarface
Head up easy hands in a corner to a roof (stem). Best to backclean or run out the hands stretch to avoid rope drag. Pull around the corner into fingers leading to a strenuous stance beneath the 2nd roof. Pull this roof to another strenuous stance beneath the 3rd roof. Above this roof sequential jamming leads to the chains but there are no stances so you'll either need burl to place gear or balls to punch it for a short ways....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Robert Stetler
Dec 20, 2001
As I remember it starts in fingers, it is really balancy up the start, it then goes to really good tight hands for a way (#2 friends) then it gets a little wider and gets easier. There is some cool stemming up top, not necesary but a good break. My wuss partner John, flopped all over it. This is a really good route that utterly fails to suck.
By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Oct 29, 2004
This is hard at the bottom but eases off after 30 feet or so. Stellar jamming, my mitts were a little too big for the bottom third, so it felt desperate and insecure. Up higher (as the rain really started coming down) the tight hands opened up into a luscious, slightly moist, slutty, big hands, crack.
By Cassie Walck
Apr 30, 2009
!!!LOST!!! : Canon Powershot Camera in a red, white and black christmas sock. Was lost around April 26, 2009 and is most likely at the Scarface parking lot. If found please please please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Thank you so much!