Technical stemming up an ominous dihedral combined with a few powerful moves over bulging sections is encountered on this classic test piece. Although the crux (11+) is at a steep bulge about 10' above a 1/4" bolt and 80' off the deck, difficult moves occur right off the ground and continue to the anchors at the top of Pitch #1.
Location
This obvious line in the dihedrals is just right of To Bolt Or Not To Be and left of Powder in the Eyes.
Protection
Multiple stoppers, RP's, HB offsets, and small cams (I didn't use anything larger than an orange TCU). There are also two old bolts (1/4" and 5/16") and a piton that will probably still arrest a fall. Anchors are at the top of Pitch #1.
I've led this route a few times, and have to say that it is NOT PG-13 line. The gear isn't the best at the start, but it is there. For the most part it's small nuts, with some small cams (I want to say blue to orange TCUs). Bring at least 10 draws. I find the crux above the first bolt, but you can get a GREAT stopper above the bolt so you are not whipping on the bolt.
The Dihedrals
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