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Mt. Shuksan. Photo by Blitzo. DescriptionThe North Cascades are home to a huge number of sharp granite peaks with many excellent alpine climbs. With so much to offer and typical alpine approaches, you probably won't find mobs of other people. The granite is mostly very good, offering cracks, chimneys, flakes, roofs, etc. Summer is the time for alpine rock. Getting ThereThe general North Cascades area can be reached either by driving west on Highway 20 from I-5 (although Highway 20 is more often closed than not) or by driving east on Highway 2 to Leavenworth or I-90, then North on Highway 97 and North again on Highway 153, which meets up with the other side of Highway 20 in Twisp. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Cascades:
Coleman Headwall Steep Snow Snow, Alpine, 2000 feet, Grade IV Mt. Baker
Mount Baker, North Ridge WI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade III Mt. Baker
Coleman/Deming Glacier Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine, 7080 feet, Grade II Mt. Baker
Colman Ski Descent Easy Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine, 7000 feet, Grade IV Mt. Baker
Quien Sabe Glacier 4th Easy Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine Boston Basin : Sahale Peak
NE Ridge Easy 5th PG13 Trad, Alpine Mt Triumph
Price Glacier Route Easy 5th WI3-4 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine Mt. Shuksan : Price Glacier
South Arete 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire
West Ridge 5.6 Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500 feet, Grade III Boston Basin : Forbidden Peak
Beckey Route (SW Face) 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II Washington Pass : Liberty Bell
East Ridge Direct 5.8- Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Boston Basin : Forbidden Peak
North Face 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
SW Rib 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire
East Face 5.9+ Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Washington Pass : Lexington Tower
East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
East Face 5.10d Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III The Gunsight Range : Middle Peak
Direct East Buttress 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire
The West Face 5.11- Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire
Liberty Crack 5.11- C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Washington Pass : Liberty Bell
Featured Route For North Cascades
 This and the neighboring Northwest Corner Route are two of the finest alpine rock climbs I have had the pleasure to yet accomplish. Great movement, committing moves, huge exposure, beautiful position: some of the best climbs in the Washington Pass area.The West Face shares its first pitch with the Northwest Corner, a somewhat dirty face up to a chimney with trees above (5.8). From here, move the belay up 3rd class terrain to a huge sandy ledge at the base of a large corner, the base of the sec...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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