Cathedral Ledge

The upper part of the route. Taken from the cottag...

Description 

Cathedral Ledge is the epicenter of Trad climbing in New Hampshire. Because of its easy access and routes of all grades and styles, Cathedral has been deservedly popular for decades. Its proximity to North Conway assures that Cathedral has its own scene and it is not uncommon to be sharing the cliff with old timers who put up routes back in the 60s, 70s, and 80s.

Though new route potential exists, the classic lines receive most of the attention. Routes like Thin Air (5.6), Recompense (5.9), and The Prow (5.11) may see many ascents each weekend. Cathedral has something for everyone as the cliff offers long multi pitch routes, face climbs, splitter cracks, and even a few dubious quality sport routes. From short practice climbs at the North End to the soaring Yosemite-style aid routes of the Central Wall, everyone can be happy at Cathedral Ledge.

Guidebooks for Cathedral abound, but Jerry Handren's Rock Fax guidebook is probably the most useful. Ed Websters "Rock Climbs of the White Mountains" provides excellent history for the area.

A webcam trained on the cliff can be found at www.neclimbs.com, as can notes about conditions, routes, etc.

For gear and/or beta spray, head to either IME or EMS in North Conway. Both outfits offer guide services and climbing gear and convieniently can be found across the street from each other. The Frontside Grind has great coffee.

The seasons at Cathedral Ledge mirror those of all the areas in New England. Fall is the best. Summer can be good, as the cliff gets shade in the afternoon. Spring often brings seeping rock, so there is a 50/50 chance that your route will be dry. Winter offers amazing ice climbs.

Getting There 

Find North Conway on the map of New Hampshire. Cathedral Ledge and its sister cliff, Whitehorse Ledge, can be seen from town. Follow roads to the base of the cliff. This sounds vague, but finding the cliff is really easy...of the two tall cliffs you see, Cathedral is the right one.

A road winds its way along the base and up to the top of the cliff. Many routes are accessed from the top, and this road allows for an easy approach. The road closes in the winter, leaving ice climbers with the unenviable task of having to walk down.

Winter Climbing 

For a description of Cathedral's ice routes, see Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs.

The Classics

Featured Route For Cathedral Ledge

Mines of Moria 5.5 C2  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall

Boulder up a low slopping ledge to the start of a shallow right facing corner. Easy aid up bolts and pins to a thin placement then up a nice corner to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of a ledge, skip this and move right to another anchor next to a large flake. Up the flake to a bolt ladder, some of these bad boys are from the FA and suck. But a couple were replaced 2 years ago. Follow the bolt ladder to a flake and this to a corner and the b...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Cathedral Ledge Slideshow

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Matt Ritter nearing the end of the Bridge. Photo ...	Panoramic of Cathedral Ledge. Consists of 3 digita...	Brian and I on lunch break between climbs, at the ...
A look down from one of the many sweet belays on C...	The view on a nice day from atop the first pitch o...	Mike lowering into the void. Photo by Arthur Keha...
a great view of cathedral's right side and a littl...	an angle i dont normally see of Cathedral due to t...	Nighttime skies over Cathedral Ledge.
"how long does it take to get to the top?"	first time to cathedral and i found 3 pieces of bo...	Bill Morse tr'ing Edge of the World, the left spli...
There were only two other parties when we climbed ...	Historic Pic...Paul Ross Jimmy Dunn. EMS Intructor...	P.Ross on the FA of the Girdle Traverse .The Big P...
NH and UT pioneer finishing Refuse.