Panoramic of Cathedral Ledge. Consists of 3 digita...
Description
Cathedral Ledge is the epicenter of Trad climbing in New Hampshire. Because of its easy access and routes of all grades and styles, Cathedral has been deservedly popular for decades. Its proximity to North Conway assures that Cathedral has its own scene and it is not uncommon to be sharing the cliff with old timers who put up routes back in the 60s, 70s, and 80s.
Though new route potential exists, the classic lines receive most of the attention. Routes like Thin Air (5.6), Recompense (5.9), and The Prow (5.11) may see many ascents each weekend. Cathedral has something for everyone as the cliff offers long multi pitch routes, face climbs, splitter cracks, and even a few dubious quality sport routes. From short practice climbs at the North End to the soaring Yosemite-style aid routes of the Central Wall, everyone can be happy at Cathedral Ledge.
Guidebooks for Cathedral abound, but Jerry Handren's Rock Fax guidebook is probably the most useful. Ed Websters "Rock Climbs of the White Mountains" provides excellent history for the area.
A webcam trained on the cliff can be found at www.neclimbs.com, as can notes about conditions, routes, etc.
For gear and/or beta spray, head to either IME or EMS in North Conway. Both outfits offer guide services and climbing gear and convieniently can be found across the street from each other. The Frontside Grind has great coffee.
The seasons at Cathedral Ledge mirror those of all the areas in New England. Fall is the best. Summer can be good, as the cliff gets shade in the afternoon. Spring often brings seeping rock, so there is a 50/50 chance that your route will be dry. Winter offers amazing ice climbs.
Getting There
Find North Conway on the map of New Hampshire. Cathedral Ledge and its sister cliff, Whitehorse Ledge, can be seen from town. Follow roads to the base of the cliff. This sounds vague, but finding the cliff is really easy...of the two tall cliffs you see, Cathedral is the right one.
A road winds its way along the base and up to the top of the cliff. Many routes are accessed from the top, and this road allows for an easy approach. The road closes in the winter, leaving ice climbers with the unenviable task of having to walk down.
Cathedral's hardest pitch? Northern Hospitality climbs up an elegant and brutal feature on the left side of the Airation Buttress. Start with a V7ish dyno which leads to technical climbing and a crux "elevator sequence," up a cool shallow corner system that switches aspects a number of times. Plus, since it's Cathedral, there's a slightly runout slab to finish. 13c? Yeah right. ...[more]
Cathedral Ledge
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