Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Henry Barber 1973
Page Views: 7,493 total · 48/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents. The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake. This saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump. There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top.

If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.

Location

This feature is obvious from the ground. Looking up at The Prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The Big Flush".

From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.

Protection

Regular rack plus some WIDE cams. Doubles in the hand sizes recommended.

Photos