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Routes in The Prow Area

Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Various--Ed Webster, Henry Barber FFA 1978
Page Views: 6,149 total, 52/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Feb 26, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Women in Love, a Joe Cote aid route, is one of the classic crack climbs in the NE. Steep, clean and exposed climbing with airy belays. Ratings go back and forth for the crux pitch--12a is probably appropriate.

Pitch 1. Easy but awkward climbing leads to a fierce thin section (11d). There used to be a tree to get past the last crux. A good ledge is just above. 70'

Pitch 2. Continue up the easier finger crack to an exposed hanging belay in the vicinity of the top of the Beast Flake (5.11b). 70'

Pitch 3. A short section of crack/corner climbing leads to a thin boulder problem past two bolts right on the arete trending left. Finish up an awesomely exposed flake that lands you on the ledge below the tourist overlook. (12a) 70'

Location

Off the right end of the long tree-covered ledge, find a nice sloping ledge with an obvious right-leaning finger crack. The best approach is to traverse the ledge across to the route. You can also climb WILD which is two somewhat unevenly protected pitches (11b, 10c)starting left of the Beast.

Protection

Plenty of finger-size gear. The route protects really well

Photos

pins fixed. Oct 3, 2013
The second piton on the 11b pitch is broken, as of July 4th weekend. Would make this pitch scarier, for sure. Jul 9, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
c2 (easy, expect some awkward placements) second pitch maybe a touch funky, Jul 1, 2012
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
what does this go as for an aid route grade wise? Jun 30, 2012
Nick L  
Re fixed gear: only 1 fixed wire low on P1 and 2 pins on P2 (one of which is cracked). Hardly a clip-up... Oct 9, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
WOW- sounds kinda fixed now. I barely remember any fixed gear except on the last pitch. Jul 18, 2011
CCliffe
 
CCliffe  
 
Super good climbing. done as wild women, i think better than the prow and just as sustained. lots of pitons/bolts (for just women in love i only placed 3 pieces) and great exposure. Jul 16, 2011
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.12a
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.12a
Both the first and the third pitches have technical, sequence-dependent cruxes that would make Women in Love a proud onsight. I feel the first pitch is the real route crux.

What a great climb! Jun 8, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I haven't been on it in 7 years, but the Wild Women start was neither dirty nor run-out at that time. It certainly seems to be the way to start Women In Love.
Put it all together and it's easily one of the best routes on the cliff. Has anyone ever replaced the bolt on the crux pitch. I remember it being old and in a bad location for the free-climbing. It is what it is though, I guess, with former aid routes. May 31, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
WAY good. About as good a climb as any in New England. I think the WILD start is also good but a little run-out and maybe dirty now. May 28, 2008