The Beast Flake
Avg: 3.7 from 154 votes
Routes in The Prow Area
|Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Page Views:||16,164 total, 123/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Feb 15, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe Beast Flake is a variation to the second pitch of Recompense that is so good, it deserves its own name.
From the bolted belay on Recompense, head up the chimney for a ways until it is obvious to traverse left (small TCU pro). Traverse around the corner (crux) and gain the wonderful flake. This flake is huge and is the Platonic ideal of juggy. Layback with little difficulty, and also little pro unless you brought numerous #3 and #3.5 Camalots. Belay at the top of the flake off gear at a stance.
The only downfall of this route (literally) is that you must then climb down from the belay, enter the chimey and climb Recompense's second pitch chimney grovel the the routes third pitch belay stance below the large dihedral.
Climbing Recompense using this variation is often called Recom-beast.