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Routes in Thin Air Face

Adventures in 3D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
DMZ T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Missing Link T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Mans Land T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pro Choice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapid Transit T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Repulsion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saigons, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thinner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Toe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Windfall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Uwe Schneider,Craig Taylor August 1993
Page Views: 697 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bob A on Jun 8, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

If you like thin face climbing, then this climb is for you! The crux is between the first and second bolt. You may want to use a locker on the first bolt instead of a draw due to groundfall potential. The bolts on this pitch were updated in 2011. There is a second pitch at 5.6 that I have not added a description for due to old bolts that need updating and a general route cleaning.

Location

This is the Three bolt climb that is left and slightly downhill from Still in Saigon and The Big Flush on the very left side of the Thin Air face.This is the Worm Drive Buttress.

Protection

Three draws(or two draws and a locker) to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The bolted route to the left is probably True Lies 12b Jan 13, 2013
jim.dangle
  5.10c/d
jim.dangle  
  5.10c/d
This climb is so far left that it is downhill and almost behind the Saigons on a little Buttress that sticks out. The second clip is indeed a little hair-raising but I don't think it is so bad. Because of the position on a steep slope and due to a large tree at the bottom an alert belayer might be able to get a little dynamic and creative should the leader blow it (good luck with that). The route seems to finish out left around the arete. Short but fun. Good to do while waiting for one of the longer climbs. Bring on the second pitch!

What is the bolted route to the left of this one? Jul 4, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
isnt left up hill from still in saigon? Jun 10, 2012
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Very fun route....very old school at the same time. A locker on the first bolt and steady nerves up to the second will see you through. Cleaning and replacing the old bolts is on the list for this summer. Very close to a three star, but it is a bit short and thwarts some of the best. Once the second pitch is a go, I may change my rating to 3 stars...it really is a fun route! Jun 8, 2012