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Routes in The Prow Area

Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: J. Bragg and Ajax Green aug 1973
Page Views: 302 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

It was hard for me to decide how many stars to give this one due to how overgrown the vegetation is. If it was nice and clean I feel like it would be four stars for sure; however, right now two stars is a bit if a stretch.

The moves are awesome, the route is super obvious and aesthetic, it would just need a ton of traffic to keep it clean. The R rated sections include a very committing slab run out to the belay ledge on Pitch 2 and the danger of falling on a sharp block on pitch 3 (at 6'2" I was able to make a long reach to place a piece and avoid this danger). People have done major cleaning in the past, and due to the location of the climb (a wet spot) and low traffic, the vegetation comes back quickly.

Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb first pitch of Recompense until you get to a few pins below a corner. Many people belay here there first time up Recompense not realizing that there is a nice belay for that route around the corner. Back up the pins and belay from here.

Pitch 2: 5.7 Go up the corner above (fun) to a ledge, move up and left with little to no protection to belay level with the start of the chimney on Recompense. This is a nice comfy ledge at a cluster of small birch trees.

Pitch 3: 5.9+R This is the money pitch. Move up a clean crack through some broken blocky rock and back to the right avoiding injury above the sharp block to get in to the long corner. Climb on dirty jams and laybacks reaching between areas of dirt and vegetation. Eventually the crack widens to an off-width and you can layback or squeeze chimney up as the difficulty eases and Continue to a tree belay.

Pitch 4: Climb the final corner to the top (this is the same corner as Commando Run).

Location

The next obvious corner right of Recompense (5.9). Start up Recompense then break on to Gypsy 2/3 up the first pitch.

Protection

Normal rack plus perhaps some wide cams for the OW section, but they would be for convenience. There are other options.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
My thought on the R rating at this point is that pitch 2 is a full on R rating for the runout to the belay at 5.7, slabby... The 3rd pitch could go either way. Being tall, i was able to reach good pro and avoid the danger of falling on the sharp block but shorter climbers could have a sketch spot there. The upper corner is pg rated.
My updated 2 cents Nov 13, 2016
Defiantly not R Jun 4, 2016
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
Seemed pretty "R" to me looking at hacking my rope or my ankles off on that flake but the moves were also sopping wet when I did them. Do not climb this route the day after it rains. The dihedral pitch is full of ferns again and the first 10 feet were sopping wet and as such we bailed to spend some quality time with the Beast Flake. Jun 29, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b R
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b R
Serious climbing on p. 2 & 3, not nearly as good as it looks. R for potential to fall on the perched boulder at p. 3 crux. Feb 1, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i got the "r" from the guide book... maybe they put it in there to keep the crowds off it haha... Aug 11, 2011
Zenith Zhang
Boston
  5.9
Zenith Zhang   Boston
  5.9
In what universe is it a R climb? It's so well protected and with a long chimney in the middle part. One can rest in the chimney easily and place bomber protections. Aug 11, 2011
Someone just pulled a large block off the route.
Info can be found at: NEClimbs Forum > General > Rock Climbing: Trad > Gypsy Jul 14, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks jim somebody!!! Jul 8, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
JIm some body.....local NC guide. Jul 8, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the other day while climbing the prow i was looking over at Gypsy and it seems like someone did some MEGA cleaning on it and it looks perfect! and ready to climb... huge thanks to whoever did the cleaning, i cant wait to get back on it!!! Jul 8, 2009