Avg: 1.9 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||J. Bragg and Ajax Green aug 1973|
|Page Views:||877 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Jun 28, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The moves are awesome, the route is super obvious and aesthetic, it would just need a ton of traffic to keep it clean. The R rated sections include a very committing slab run out to the belay ledge on Pitch 2 and the danger of falling on a sharp block on pitch 3 (at 6'2" I was able to make a long reach to place a piece and avoid this danger). People have done major cleaning in the past, and due to the location of the climb (a wet spot) and low traffic, the vegetation comes back quickly.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb first pitch of Recompense until you get to a few pins below a corner. Many people belay here there first time up Recompense not realizing that there is a nice belay for that route around the corner. Back up the pins and belay from here.
Pitch 2: 5.7 Go up the corner above (fun) to a ledge, move up and left with little to no protection to belay level with the start of the chimney on Recompense. This is a nice comfy ledge at a cluster of small birch trees.
Pitch 3: 5.9+R This is the money pitch. Move up a clean crack through some broken blocky rock and back to the right avoiding injury above the sharp block to get in to the long corner. Climb on dirty jams and laybacks reaching between areas of dirt and vegetation. Eventually the crack widens to an off-width and you can layback or squeeze chimney up as the difficulty eases and Continue to a tree belay.
Pitch 4: Climb the final corner to the top (this is the same corner as Commando Run).