Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: J. Bragg and Ajax Green aug 1973
Page Views: 654 total · 4/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

It was hard for me to decide how many stars to give this one due to how overgrown the vegetation is. If it was nice and clean I feel like it would be four stars for sure; however, right now two stars is a bit if a stretch.

The moves are awesome, the route is super obvious and aesthetic, it would just need a ton of traffic to keep it clean. The R rated sections include a very committing slab run out to the belay ledge on Pitch 2 and the danger of falling on a sharp block on pitch 3 (at 6'2" I was able to make a long reach to place a piece and avoid this danger). People have done major cleaning in the past, and due to the location of the climb (a wet spot) and low traffic, the vegetation comes back quickly.

Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb first pitch of Recompense until you get to a few pins below a corner. Many people belay here there first time up Recompense not realizing that there is a nice belay for that route around the corner. Back up the pins and belay from here.

Pitch 2: 5.7 Go up the corner above (fun) to a ledge, move up and left with little to no protection to belay level with the start of the chimney on Recompense. This is a nice comfy ledge at a cluster of small birch trees.

Pitch 3: 5.9+R This is the money pitch. Move up a clean crack through some broken blocky rock and back to the right avoiding injury above the sharp block to get in to the long corner. Climb on dirty jams and laybacks reaching between areas of dirt and vegetation. Eventually the crack widens to an off-width and you can layback or squeeze chimney up as the difficulty eases and Continue to a tree belay.

Pitch 4: Climb the final corner to the top (this is the same corner as Commando Run).

Location

The next obvious corner right of Recompense (5.9). Start up Recompense then break on to Gypsy 2/3 up the first pitch.

Protection

Normal rack plus perhaps some wide cams for the OW section, but they would be for convenience. There are other options.

Photos