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Routes in The Prow Area
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Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Faux Pas Arete, The T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Liquid Sky T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Peanut Gallery Flake T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wild Kingdom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.06298, -71.1656 |
| FA: | John Bouchard, Steve Larson 1984 |
| Page Views: | 94 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Nate I on Aug 7, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Fantastic route that spits you into the last 2 pitches of the prow. The Handren guidebook only lists p1 and p3 of this route as variations to the prow, but the bolts and pins on the full route as listed in the Webster guidebook were replaced summer of 2025, so I am describing the full route as such here. I think its very fun climbing, and takes a fairly direct line that spits you into the finish of the prow. For those reasons, I think this is a very fun outing on an amazing part of the cliff.
P1- Start in the beast alcove on the slab out right (in between the alcove and start of recompense) Climb a shallow corner to some pitons, and then make a few thin face moves before gaining a ledge. (optional gear belay here... its a nice ledge and the Handren guidebook lists this pitch as ending on this ledge)
If you are continuing on, head straight up, crossing over recompense aiming for a pin in a flake system. Clip the pin and make a few hard moves in the flake before gaining a ledge and a two piton anchor that is just to the right of the Gypsy p1 piton anchor.
5.10b
P2- A short pitch as listed in the Webster guidebook. Break right onto the slab and then make cryptic and thin face climbing moves clipping 4 bolts to gain the horizontal crack before traversing right to the anchor atop p2 of the prow.
5.11b
P3- Climb out left up a blunt arete, clipping bolts before reaching a two bolt anchor at a stance.
5.10b
P4- Climb straight up, making somewhat thin slab moves off the belay, eventually clipping a high bolt at a stance. Step down and make thin moves out right to rejoin The Prow. Finish climbing the crack of p4 on The Prow to the space station belay.
5.11b
P5- Same as P5 of The Prow. The triangle roof.
5.11d
P6- Finish as for The Prow.
5.10a
Many opportunities for linking pitches here!
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