Edge of the World
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in The Prow Area
|Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Scott Franklin, 1987|
|Page Views:||6,172 total, 65/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Feb 19, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionEdge of the World might be the single best pitch in all of New England. It is certainly one of the most dramatic. If the route were closer to the ground, the moves themselves would make Edge a four-star climb. But it's the exposure, oh the exposure, that ranks Edge of The World as one of the most classic rock climbs imaginable.
The climb begins at the Space Station belay, four pitches up the Prow. (Most people rap in to this belay from the top of the cliff). Edge shares Liquid Sky's insecure 12a moves off the belay. At Liquid Sky's first pin, Edge diverges left, up the soaring arete.
Gaining the arete is the crux of the route and involves a very hard pull off a small right-hand crimp. This crimp is the size usually reserved for footholds. Once on the arete, the climbing becomes incredible. Left hand slaps and right hand pinches characterize the movement through this section. The climbing here is powerful yet surprisingly precise and subtle.
After three well-spaced bolts of hard climbing, a runout leads to the top of the arete, where a fixed nut is usually in place. While the climbing in this section clocks in at "only" 10+, the exposure and potential for a 50-foot fall make this the mental crux of the route. At the very top of the arete, a jug allows the climber to lean back and take in the spectacular situation. This really is the edge of the world.