Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Scott Franklin, 1987|
|Page Views:||8,388 total · 61/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Feb 19, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The climb begins at the Space Station belay, four pitches up the Prow. (Most people rap in to this belay from the top of the cliff). Edge shares Liquid Sky's insecure 12a moves off the belay. At Liquid Sky's first pin, Edge diverges left, up the soaring arete.
Gaining the arete is the crux of the route and involves a very hard pull off a small right-hand crimp. This crimp is the size usually reserved for footholds. Once on the arete, the climbing becomes incredible. Left hand slaps and right hand pinches characterize the movement through this section. The climbing here is powerful yet surprisingly precise and subtle.
After three well-spaced bolts of hard climbing, a runout leads to the top of the arete, where a fixed nut is usually in place. While the climbing in this section clocks in at "only" 10+, the exposure and potential for a 50-foot fall make this the mental crux of the route. At the very top of the arete, a jug allows the climber to lean back and take in the spectacular situation. This really is the edge of the world.