Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Bouchard
Page Views: 4,054 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 1, 2009 with improvements by jim.dangle
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.

The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.

To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.

Protection

Bolts. Gear to set an anchor, either at the top or the bottom of the pitch (or both).

Access

The best way to access this route is from the top. Locate the exposed ledge where Recompense tops out. This ledge is about 50 feet below the tourist overlook and is accessed by a walk around to the right (south) and under the overlook via a worn trail.

It's also possible to access this route by climbing Recompense and diverging from the big corner at the obvious foothold/ledge that marks the start of the Faux Pas Arete. This approach would require leading the pitch, which is a somewhat scary proposition.

Photos