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Routes in The Prow Area

Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Bouchard
Page Views: 3,117 total, 30/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 1, 2009 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.

The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.

To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.

Protection

Bolts. Gear to set an anchor, either at the top or the bottom of the pitch (or both).

Access

The best way to access this route is from the top. Locate the exposed ledge where Recompense tops out. This ledge is about 50 feet below the tourist overlook and is accessed by a walk around to the right (south) and under the overlook via a worn trail.

It's also possible to access this route by climbing Recompense and diverging from the big corner at the obvious foothold/ledge that marks the start of the Faux Pas Arete. This approach would require leading the pitch, which is a somewhat scary proposition.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I TRed this one yesterday WHAT A SPECTACULAR CLIMB IN THE PERFECT SPOT!
Next time I do Recompense I will have to lead it proper but it was so FUN!

Mark- I stayed left of the arete for the first half then went around to the right and back left to the top. It seemed intuitive that way for me... I didnt see much around the corner that I liked for the first half... Jul 10, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I'm pretty sure it was rap bolted on the f/a..? never tried it on the right side. Oct 22, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Does anybody else find that it is a lot easier staying on the right side of the arete until the very top? I just TRed it, but couldn't help thinking "why aren't the bolts over here?" Must have been from bolting on the lead. It was beautiful climbing on the right, flowed nicely and great positioning. Felt like easier 11 that way. Oct 21, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Thanks Steve. Oct 26, 2009
John Bouchard did the 1st ascent Oct 26, 2009