The Faux Pas Arete
Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
Routes in The Prow Area
|Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||3,117 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Jun 1, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.
The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.
To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.
AccessThe best way to access this route is from the top. Locate the exposed ledge where Recompense tops out. This ledge is about 50 feet below the tourist overlook and is accessed by a walk around to the right (south) and under the overlook via a worn trail.
It's also possible to access this route by climbing Recompense and diverging from the big corner at the obvious foothold/ledge that marks the start of the Faux Pas Arete. This approach would require leading the pitch, which is a somewhat scary proposition.