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Peanut Gallery Flake

5.11c, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 24 votes
FA: Henry Barber 1973
New Hampshire > Cathedral Ledge > Prow Area

Description

This route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents. The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake. This saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump. There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top.

If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.

Location

This feature is obvious from the ground. Looking up at The Prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The Big Flush".

From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.

Protection

Regular rack plus some WIDE cams. Doubles in the hand sizes recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brittni reaching the top flake at the end of the squeeeeeze. BETA ALERT: Don't wear a tank top.
[Hide Photo] Brittni reaching the top flake at the end of the squeeeeeze. BETA ALERT: Don't wear a tank top.
Top roping Peanut Gallery Flake on May 21, 2018
[Hide Photo] Top roping Peanut Gallery Flake on May 21, 2018
Laura climbing the fingers and hands section of Peanut Gallery Flake.
[Hide Photo] Laura climbing the fingers and hands section of Peanut Gallery Flake.
I finally got my lead on this thing today. Wow... what an epic climb. Thanks for the photos Torie and the belay Alec. This was a serious bucket list climb for me :)
[Hide Photo] I finally got my lead on this thing today. Wow... what an epic climb. Thanks for the photos Torie and the belay Alec. This was a serious bucket list climb for me :)
Converse gettin in on the groveling
[Hide Photo] Converse gettin in on the groveling
The line viewed from Airation Butress
[Hide Photo] The line viewed from Airation Butress
Tim on Peanut Gallery Flake....
[Hide Photo] Tim on Peanut Gallery Flake....

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

m-earle
USA
[Hide Comment] I belileive that the top fifteen feet or so is bigger than a #6, either run it out, or you will need a big bro or two. This route has awsome exposure. Mar 26, 2007
john strand
southern colo
 
[Hide Comment] I think Kenny Sims made the first lead of this route. He did have some problems with clipping in the wrong rope too! Anyway a good pump- also the arete to the right is a good tr 11B Jul 1, 2008
David Aguasca!
New York
 
[Hide Comment] This is one of my favorite pitches of climbing on Cathedral...barndoor laybacking, sinker hand and fist jamming, and some decent offwidth action, most of it slightly overhanging...you can't go wrong! The exposure is fantastic, too. Apr 30, 2009
K. Boyko
Las Cruces, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Brilliant climb! 5 star climbing and a must do just for the exposure.

Wide climbing isn't too bad. Easily lead with just one #5 camalot as long as you don't place it at the bottom overhang (#4 fits great here).
If airtime doesn't bother you, forgo the big stuff as the falls would be clean and on good rock. Aug 7, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I finally led this one today and it was an amazing experience. so good!
I placed a #6 and didn't use a #5 so it seems like that is down to preference. Have fun what ever you place! Sep 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] An abundance of knee locks in the offwidth sections to help with the pump. Climb it straight in for a fun few minutes of groveling! Jun 16, 2019